The best portable SSDs for 2025


Whether you want to back up the data on your PC, transfer videos from your Mac or offload a few games from your PlayStation 5, a portable SSD is a quick and easy way to expand your storage. These little bricks may cost more than traditional hard drives, but they’re significantly faster, lighter and more reliable. Figuring out the best portable SSD for you, though, isn’t as simple as just picking the one with the lowest price or the most space. (Well, it can be, but that wouldn’t be very efficient.) To help, we’ve weeded through the portable SSD market, tested a bunch of contenders and sorted out which ones offer the most value. You can find our top picks below, plus an overview of what to know before you buy.

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Photo by Jeff Dunn / Engadget

Capacities: 1TB, 2TB, 4TB | Size: 2.56 x 1.97 x 0.39 inches | Weight: 1.34 ounces | USB interface: USB 3.2 Gen 2 | Controller/bridge chip: Silicon Motion SM2320 | NAND type: TLC | Rated maximum sequential speeds: 1,050 MB/s read, 1,050 MB/s write | Warranty: Five years

The Crucial X9 Pro finished at or just under the top in each of our benchmarks relative to its speed class, and it stayed noticeably cooler than most of the other drives we tested after extended use. It’s a USB 3.2 Gen 2 model, so it’s slower than alternatives based on Thunderbolt, USB4 or USB 3.2 Gen 2×2, but it costs less, and it’s still quick enough for the non-professional tasks most people do with a portable SSD. Ports that can actually utilize USB 3.2 Gen 2 speeds tend to be more ubiquitous on mainstream computers, too. This isn’t the cheapest 10 Gbps drive around, but it’s in the same ballpark as its peers and isn’t too expensive. As of this writing, a 1TB model is available for $95, though it often goes for less. (We’ve seen it fall as low as $60 in the past.) 2TB and 4TB versions are also available.

Besides its relatively speedy performance, the X9 Pro stands out for being so tiny. Its aluminum case is shorter than a credit card and easy to fit in a pocket, weighing in at just 1.34 ounces. The whole thing is IP55-rated, so it’ll survive dust and water splashes, and it’s backed with a five-year warranty, which is a couple years longer than some alternatives.

Our only real complaints are that the included USB-C cable is small and there’s no adapter for USB-A ports in the box. And while the X9 Pro can utilize 256-bit , Micron (Crucial’s parent company) hasn’t released its own password protection tool to take full advantage of it. We’ll also note that there’s a cheaper non-”Pro” X9, but that one uses QLC flash, so it’s not as durable or fast (especially with sustained writes). The X9 Pro is the better buy.

Pros

  • Great performance for its speed class
  • Rugged and super compact form factor
  • Stays relatively cool with extended use
  • Five-year warranty
Cons

  • There are cheaper 10 Gbps drives
  • Included USB-C cable is short, and there’s no USB-A cable in the box

$99 at Amazon

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Photo by Jeff Dunn / Engadget

Capacities: 1TB, 2TB | Size: 2.74 x 1.28 x 0.53 inches | Weight: 1.01 ounces | USB interface: USB 3.2 Gen 2 | Controller/bridge chip: Silicon Motion SM2320 | NAND type: TLC | Rated maximum sequential speeds: 1,050 MB/s read, 1,000 MB/s write | Warranty: Five years

The Kingston XS1000 performs similarly to the Crucial X9 Pro but often retails for less, so it’s a good alternative if you want to save some cash. A 1TB model is available for $75 as we write this, which is $20 less than the X9 Pro, while the 2TB version is down to $120, which is a roughly $30 drop. There’s no 4TB option, though.

At those prices, the XS1000 is a good value for everyday backups and transfers. It kept up with or slightly edged the X9 Pro across our benchmarks: In our custom file transfer test, for example, its reads were a second faster, while its writes were only six seconds slower. (The two drives appear to have comparable internals and are based on a similar controller — the Silicon Power SM2320G — so this may not be a huge surprise.) It topped every USB 3.2 Gen 2 drive we tested in 3DMark’s gaming storage benchmark as well. It’s slightly thicker than the X9 Pro but still wonderfully portable, with its stubby rectangular design weighing just over an ounce. Like the Crucial drive, it’s backed by a five-year warranty.

Where Kingston’s model falls behind Crucial’s X9 Pro is in the extras. There’s no formal IP or drop ratings, so we wouldn’t feel as comfortable chucking it around on the go. It lacks hardware-based encryption, and it only comes with a USB-C to A cable, so you’ll need to supply your own adapter if your laptop only has USB-C ports. It doesn’t stay quite as cool as the X9 Pro with continuous use, and its sustained write performance isn’t as fast either, so it’s worth paying up if you plan to regularly copy hundreds of gigabytes to the SSD (and can’t just get a higher-class model). For the money, though, all of this may be easier to overlook.

Pros

  • Faster than most 10 Gbps drives we tested
  • Aggressively priced
  • Highly portable
  • Five-year warranty
Cons

  • No formal water-resistance or drop protection
  • No USB-C to C cable in the box
  • Only available in 1TB or 2TB
  • Slower sustained write performance than X9 Pro with very large files

$75 at Amazon

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Photo by Jeff Dunn / Engadget

Capacities: 1TB, 2TB, 4TB | Size: 4.13 x 2.52 x 0.62 inches (with fan off), 4.82 x 2.52 x 0.62 inches (with fan on) | Weight: 6.4 ounces | USB interface: USB4 (40 Gbps) | Controller/bridge chip: Asmedia ASM2464PD | NAND type: TLC | Rated maximum sequential speeds: 3,800 MB/s read, 3,700 MB/s write | Warranty: Five years

If you’re a media editor, IT professional or just an enthusiast willing to pay for a significantly faster portable SSD, get the . It uses the newer USB4 interface and blew away every non-40 Gbps drive we tested across our benchmark tests.

In AmorphousDiskMark, for example, the Crucial X9 Pro delivered sequential reads and writes around 1,015 MB/s and 950 MB/s, respectively; with the SE920, those were about 3,350 MB/s and 3,125 MB/s. In our custom mixed file transfer test, we were able to move our 70GB folder to our MacBook in 32 seconds; with the X9 Pro, that process averaged about 81 seconds. Writing the folder to the drive, meanwhile, was about 30 seconds faster. If you’re buying an external SSD to move around large chunks of data, this kind of leap adds up.

The drive itself is significantly bigger and thicker than either of our picks above, but it’s not so large that we’d call it unwieldy. It’s about the size of a deck of cards, so it’ll fit better in a bag than a pants pocket. Beyond that, the brushed metal exterior feels crisp to the touch, and ADATA supports the device with a five-year warranty.

That said, this thing can get seriously hot. The design includes a built-in micro fan to help dissipate heat, which you activate just by clicking the case down; that’s clever, but it’s not enough to keep the drive cool on its own. All of this comes at a price premium, too, with a 1TB model currently available for $180. But if performance is the only thing that matters to you, it should be worthwhile.

Pros

  • Blazingly fast 40 Gbps performance
  • Slick metal enclosure
  • Smaller than other USB4 and Thunderbolt SSDs we tested
  • Clever built-in fan
  • Five-year warranty
Cons

  • Gets hot even with fan activated
  • Pricier and still larger than other picks
  • Requires USB4 port to reach maximum speeds

$180 at Amazon

The pre-built OWC Express 1M2 is a premium-feeling USB4 SSD that’s roughly as fast as the ADATA SE920, but it’s larger and significantly more expensive as of this writing.

If you’re in the relatively small group with a PC that supports USB 3.2 Gen 2×2 but not Thunderbolt or USB4, the Crucial X10 Pro is essentially a faster version of our top pick. The Lexar SL600 is a larger but slightly quicker option, while the Lexar SL500, Kingston XS2000 or Samsung T9 could also work if you see them on discount. As a reminder, though, drives like these are aimed primarily at content creators and other professionals, and you have to make sure you won’t upgrade to a device with a faster USB interface anytime soon.

The Samsung T7 Shield has a conveniently rugged design with a rubberized, IP65-rated shell. It also comes with both USB-C and USB-A cables. But it was consistently slower than the X9 Pro and XS1000 in our benchmark tests, plus it has a shorter three-year warranty.

The Silicon Power PX10 is an especially affordable USB 3.2 Gen 2 model. Its peak speeds weren’t too far off the X9 Pro or XS1000 in synthetic benchmarks, but it can get distractingly hot and its sustained writes are markedly worse. It took 50 seconds longer to move our 70GB custom test folder to this drive compared to the X9 Pro, for example.

The Crucial X6 is another low-cost option that’s a good bit slower than our top picks. It’s limited to a three-year warranty and lacks an IP rating as well. It’s not a terrible option for the basics, but there’s little reason to get it over the XS1000 when their prices are similar.

The OWC Envoy Pro FX is well-built and supports Thunderbolt 3 and USB 3.2 Gen 2, but it’s a smidge slower than the SE920 and Express 1M2, and it’s much pricier than the former.

Lifestyle marketing photo of a person using a Windows laptop with a Samsung portable SSD plugged into it. A camera is also nearby, and it all sits on a green and orange surface.Lifestyle marketing photo of a person using a Windows laptop with a Samsung portable SSD plugged into it. A camera is also nearby, and it all sits on a green and orange surface.

The Samsung T9 portable SSD. (Samsung)

The first thing to figure out before buying a portable SSD is just how much storage space you need. Most of the drives we considered for this guide are available in capacities ranging from one to four terabytes, though plenty of smaller and larger options exist.

There’s no hard-and-fast rule for which size is “best” — that’ll ultimately depend on your budget and what exactly you’re looking to stash. But in general, it’s better to overcompensate than underdo it. Nobody wants to be forced into buying a second drive because they filled the first one up too quickly. If you’re backing up a PC, a good rule of thumb is to buy an external SSD with twice as much space as your computer’s internal storage. This way, you can save at least one full backup while also having room for additional data. If you want to store a bunch of PlayStation or Xbox games with huge install sizes, you may need more space. If you just want to back up a small collection of files, you may be better off saving your cash and just getting a smaller USB flash drive instead, which aren’t quite the same as the external SSDs we tested for this guide.

In general, you get a better price-per-gigabyte ratio the further you go up the capacity ladder. As of this writing, the 1TB Samsung T9 is priced at $130, or $0.13 per gigabyte (GB), while the 4TB version is available for $297 or $0.07 per GB. That technically makes the larger model a better “value,” but not everyone needs to pay that much more upfront.

SSDs in the same speed class tend to not vary too wildly in terms of performance, so part of our decision-making for this guide came down to which ones are often the cheapest. But prices can fluctuate over time; if you see that one of our top picks is priced way higher than a comparable honorable mention, feel free to get the latter. At this point in time, costs are broadly trending upwards.

The ADATA SE920 portable SSD connected to an Apple MacBook Pro.The ADATA SE920 portable SSD connected to an Apple MacBook Pro.

The ADATA SE920 portable SSD connected to an Apple MacBook Pro. (Photo by Jeff Dunn / Engadget)

Just about all external SSDs are significantly faster than mechanical hard disk drives (HDDs), so you’ll save time waiting for files to transfer and games to load no matter what. Within the market, however, there are distinct performance tiers. These are defined in large part by the USB interface a drive supports. While all of the SSDs we considered for this guide can connect over USB-C, some USB-C connections can supply faster transfer speeds than others. Sorting through this can get real confusing real fast, so we’ll try to put it in simple terms.

You can essentially divide today’s crop of portable SSDs into different segments. At the very top are drives that utilize the (relatively) new Thunderbolt 5 standard, which has a theoretical maximum transfer rate of 80 gigabits per second (Gbps). (You may see it advertise speeds up to 120 Gbps, but that boost doesn’t apply to storage devices.) But portable SSDs that support this tech only just started to trickle out toward the end of 2024, and the market for devices with Thunderbolt 5 ports is still fairly limited, with the most notable exceptions being Apple’s top-end Macs with a M4 Pro or M4 Max chip.

Thunderbolt 5 is built on a spec called USB4, which can technically reach up to 80 Gbps as well but is more typically available in a flavor that tops out at 40 Gbps. Portable SSDs based on that standard started to roll out toward the end of 2023 but are still relatively infrequent. The older Thunderbolt 3 and Thunderbolt 4, which other high-end external SSDs continue to use, support the same 40 Gbps maximum.

A third version of USB4, meanwhile, maxes at 20 Gbps, as does an older yet more frequently used standard called USB 3.2 Gen 2×2. Below that is USB 3.2 Gen 2, which maxes at 10 Gbps. Then there’s USB 3.2 Gen 1, which is capped at 5 Gbps. Lastly, we’ll bundle together SSDs that use older standards and aren’t worth considering here.

To make this easy: For everyday folks, a good USB 3.2 Gen 2 drive is the sweet spot between fast-enough performance, wide-enough compatibility and cheap-enough price, so those make up our primary recommendations above. If you work in a creative field or don’t mind paying extra to shave seconds off your large file transfers, though, a “higher-tier” model would make sense. However, note that actual computers that utilize USB 3.2 Gen 2×2 aren’t super common — no Mac supports it, for one — and the interface is effectively being replaced by USB4.

In general, your chain is only as strong as its weakest link: If your computer only has USB 3.2 Gen 2 ports, for example, you could still use a Thunderbolt SSD, but you won’t get beyond Gen 2 speeds. Make sure you know what you’re working with before you buy.

As a refresher, storage devices are broadly measured in terms of read and write speeds. The former refers to how long it takes to access something from the drive; the latter, how long it takes to save something to it. From there, you can break these metrics into sequential and random performance. Sequential speeds tend to matter more with portable SSDs, since most people use them to save or access long, constant streams of data such as a bunch of high-res photos. Random speeds would be important if you want to run video games off the drive, since that’d involve reading and writing smaller, more scattered files. Either way, how well an SSD can sustain its performance with extended use is also critical.

A modern portable SSD’s speeds aren’t just about its USB interface, though. Its performance can also depend on how advanced its controller is, whether it has a native USB flash controller or a separate bridge chip to communicate with a host device, the kind and quality of NAND flash memory it uses, whether it has a DRAM cache or it’s DRAM-less, and more.

We’re simplifying things, but here are some quick tips: Drives with triple-level cell (TLC) memory aren’t as cheap as quad-level cell (QLC) SSDs, but they’re generally more reliable and they offer better write performance. Having a dedicated DRAM cache helps if you plan to hit your drive with more intense, sustained workloads, but may not be worth the extra cost for most people. Some models with native flash controllers may not perform as well as those with a bridging chip, depending on the SSD inside, but they typically draw less heat and are physically smaller. All of this is to say that an external SSD’s speeds aren’t quite as straightforward as what the manufacturer chooses to advertise on the box.

It’s also worth remembering that you can turn an internal SSD into a portable solution with a good enclosure. If you have a spare drive and don’t mind going the DIY route, this can be a cheaper and more flexible solution, though we’ve stuck to pre-built models for this guide for the sake of simplicity.

Photo by Jeff Dunn / Engadget

Most portable SSDs are impressively small and light, so they won’t be difficult to tuck in a bag (or even a pocket) and take on the go. We note above if any drive is bulkier than usual.

Nothing we’re talking about matters if your drive can’t last in the long term. It’s hard to definitively say which external SSDs are the most reliable, but we scoured through user reviews and feedback while researching this guide to ensure none of our picks show a pattern of catastrophic errors. If there was too much smoke around a particular model, we steered clear. We ruled out certain drives from SanDisk and Western Digital, for instance, after reports from Ars Technica and The Verge noted an issue that led to data loss (and lawsuits) in 2023.

That said, one of the big reasons you’d buy an SSD in general is its superior durability. Because it has no moving mechanical parts inside, an SSD has far fewer avenues to failure than an external hard drive. You still don’t want to be careless with them, but an accidental drop shouldn’t be the end of the world.

Some portable SSDs build on this inherent ruggedness with plastic or rubberized casings and more robust waterproofing. These aren’t necessary for everyone, but if you’re a frequent traveler or someone who often works outdoors, there are options for you.

Still, all drives can fail. If you have any sort of data you’d be distraught to lose, you should back it up regularly, then make a second backup, ideally with a cloud service. Along those protective lines, we also took note of the warranty policy for each drive we tested. Just about all of them are backed for either three or five years; of course, longer is better.

It’s not uncommon to store sensitive data on a portable SSD, so some models offer extra security features like hardware-based encryption — i.e., direct scrambling of data stored on the drive itself — built-in keypads and fingerprint readers to protect against unauthorized access if the drive is lost or stolen. While not top requirements, perks like these are certainly good to have. Some SSDs also come with companion software to further manage the drive. The best of those can be handy to have around, but we wouldn’t call them essential.

Unfortunately, we did not have access to a device that can make full use of USB 3.2 Gen 2, USB 3.2 Gen 2×2 and Thunderbolt/USB4 speeds interchangeably, so we had to split our testing across multiple devices, including an M1 Pro MacBook Pro and an Alienware gaming PC running Windows 11. Because of this, we primarily compared the portable SSDs within each “class” against one another. Before switching OSes, we reformatted each drive to each platform’s standard file system format: APFS for macOS and NTFS for Windows.

After researching which SSDs had enough positive feedback to be worth testing in the first place, we put 13 drives through a range of synthetic and “real-world” benchmark tests. On Windows, these included CrystalDiskMark, PCMark 10’s Data Drive Benchmark and 3DMark’s gaming-focused Storage Benchmark. On macOS, we used AmorphousDiskMark (effectively a Mac version of CrystalDiskMark), BlackMagic Disk Speed Test and ATTO Disk Benchmark.

We also timed how long it took for each drive to read and write a custom 70GB folder filled with roughly 11,500 different files, including photos, videos, music files, PDFs and other large and small data types scattered across numerous subfolders. We performed multiple passes for each test to avoid irregularities, and we kept track of each SSD’s heat levels over the course of the whole suite. Our process wasn’t a perfect science, but it gave us a general sense of how each drive compares to other models in its price and performance range.

February 2025: We’ve checked to ensure the pricing info and links in this guide are still accurate. We’ve also added details on the (relatively) new Thunderbolt 5 interface, which has been implemented in a couple recent portable SSDs like the OWC Envoy Ultra and LaCie Rugged SSD Pro5. We’ll look to include testing notes for those for our next update, as they should be faster than the ADATA SE920, our current premium pick, albeit for a much higher price. For now, though, our top picks remain the same.

October 2024: We’ve taken a sweep through this guide to ensure all pricing and availability info is still correct. Our recommendations are unchanged.

The best streaming devices for 2025


Nearly every TV on the market today is a smart TV, but not every operating system is a winner. A media streaming device lets you pair whichever user interface you prefer with just about any screen that has an HDMI port. In some cases, such as with older or less expensive smart TVs, a streaming stick or dongle could even be speedier and less glitchy than your TV’s built-in system.

At home, these handy gadgets make it easier for cord cutters to watch the millions of hours of content streaming services provide without cable. And while traveling, a streaming player lets you watch your preferred content on hotel sets (without painstakingly typing in a bunch of passwords or activation codes). We tested out streaming players from Roku, Google, Apple, Amazon and more, gauging the usability and the performance of each to come up with our list of the best streaming devices you can buy.

Google’s TV Streamer, the Apple TV 4K, Amazon’s Fire TV Sticks and Roku devices are the most popular players in the space. Three of those brands also come built into TVs, such as Fire, Google and Roku TVs, but the Apple TV 4K doesn’t come pre-loaded on any set. Each one has a unique operating system and interface. This may be the biggest deciding factor for many people, as it determines how the content you want to watch is arranged and presented. We go into detail for each platform below, but all of them come with home screens that, to varying degrees, gather your apps in one place, present the movies and TV shows you’re currently watching and give you suggestions of other media streaming options.

Nearly all streaming devices come with a remote that lets you search and do other operations using your voice, eliminating the need to hunt and peck at on-screen keyboards. They all offer “universal search,” in which searching for a title takes you to whichever app has it available. If you want to watch Barbie but don’t know where it’s playing, just push the voice button on the remote and say “Barbie.” (We found simply saying the title or the genre you want sometimes works better than saying “Show me…” or “Search for…”) From the search results, hit the play button and the correct app will open and start playing — assuming you’ve previously logged into that app and, in most cases, have an active subscription.

Most streaming sticks connect to the internet via Wi-Fi, with the majority of them supporting Wi-Fi 5 or 6 protocols. Set-top boxes can also have Ethernet ports, so you can hardwire your internet connection to the device, which is always faster than wireless. Streaming media players connect to your TV through an HDMI port, and most sticks hide behind the screen, while set-top boxes sit on a surface nearby. Nearly all units also plug into an AC outlet for power. Some sticks used to work by pulling power from a USB port on the TV, but increasingly, these devices are designed to plug into the wall.

If you have a screen that can display 4K content with Dolby Vision and HDR10, you’ll want a streaming device that supports those high-end formats. Of course, even the most top-shelf streamer can’t make a 1080p TV display content in 4K. The series or movie also has to be transmitted in 4K and, increasingly, companies restrict higher-quality streaming to more expensive subscription plans. In short, every element needs to support the video or audio feature, otherwise the highest quality you’ll get will be the lowest of any component in the chain.

In addition to helping you find stuff to watch, streaming devices from Apple, Google and Amazon can answer questions about the weather, sports scores and general facts using built-in voice assistants. They can also act as smart home controllers to turn off connected smart bulbs or plugs and show feeds from smart cameras. Just remember, as with all smart home devices, compatibility is key. Fire TV devices work with Alexa-enabled smart home equipment; the Google TV Streamer lets you control Google Home devices; Apple TV 4Ks play nice with HomeKit; and Rokus grant power over Roku’s smart home products.

Below are some recommendations for the best streaming sticks and other budget-friendly options. We also included suggestions for set-top boxes and devices geared toward gamers.

Photo by Amy Skorheim / Engadget

Read our full Google TV streamer review

Google replaced the Chromecast product line with the release of the Google TV Streamer in September of 2024. There’s no HD model, only 4K this time around and the going price is $100, which is double the price of the most recent 4K Chromecast. Instead of a dongle that hides behind your TV, it’s now a set-top wedge.

Inside, there’s a faster processor, which kept up with my scattered testing methods — opening and closing apps then reloading them immediately — with no trouble. The Apple TV 4K is still the fastest of the streamers I’ve tried, but I don’t think the speed here will disappoint most people. The storage has jumped up to 32GB from a skimpy 8GB on the Chromecast and the memory is doubled at 4GB. It supports up to 4K/60fps video with HDR, HDR10, HDR10+ and Dolby Vision. Audio formats include Dolby Digital and Dolby Atmos along with spatial audio if you’re wearing the Pixel Buds Pro.

The remote is compact and streamlined; the D-pad handles navigation, play, pause and rewind. Of course there’s also a back button (as you’d find on any good Android device). And if you ever lose the pill-shaped remote, you can push a button on the back of the set-top wedge to make it ring.

Google has made its Home app an integral part of the streamer. Not only will you use it to set up your device, but you can also use the streamer to view a slideout home panel on your TV screen (that looks a lot like the Favorites tab in the app). The panel lets you control your compatible smart home devices so you can set temperatures, turn off lights, view feeds and so on. You can even do so while you’re watching something if you program the star button on the remote to pull up the Home panel.

What really makes the Google TV Streamer the best for all-in-one steaming is the interface. It’s basically the same as what you’ll find on any TV set or screen that comes with Google TV built in. I find Google’s presentation to be the best at pulling together content from different streaming apps into one useful and intuitive menu. It’ll track what you’ve been watching across different platforms so you can easily dive back in, and the recommendations are pulled fairly equitably from across your subscribed services.

Of course, no big tech company can release a product today without some AI contrivance and it comes here in the form of computer-generated plot and audience review summaries for titles. It’ll also generate screensaver images based on your prompts. Those are fine and all, though probably not worth it. The real reason to go for the Google TV Streamer is the helpful interface combined with performance that’s faster than most of the sticks on the market. And if you’re someone who uses Google Home for your smart home control, you’ll get even more out of this device.

Pros

  • Excellent interface combines all streaming content equally
  • Useful smart home control with a slide-out paneluseful
  • Attractive device with a great remote
Cons

  • Required HDMI cable issold separately
  • Double the price of its predecessor

$100 at Verizon

Will Lipman Photography for Engadget

Operating system: Roku OS | Remote: Yes | Connectivity: Wi-Fi, Bluetooth | Display: No | Voice control: Yes

Believe it or not, the streaming world has enough free content to keep even the most voracious watchers entertained — and the Roku Streaming Stick 4K is probably the best way to access it. Roku’s interface is uncluttered, with a simple list at the left and an app grid on the right. Two of those list items, Live TV and Featured Free, are stuffed with free content, both on linear channels and video-on-demand (VOD) services. The Roku Channel app adds thousands more series, films, Roku Originals and live channels to watch without subscribing to a dang thing.

Roku makes seven different streaming devices, including sticks, set-top boxes and a few Streambars — all will get you that free content. The $50 Streaming Stick 4K is the best mix of price and features. It hides behind your TV, supports 4K, HDR10+ and Dolby Vision and has a longer range Wi-Fi. If you don’t need the longer range or Dolby Vision, and don’t mind a slightly bulkier device, you can save $10 and get the Roku Express 4K+. Both players support Apple AirPlay 2 and can control your set’s power and volume.

I found the universal search function to be accurate when looking for specific titles; pushing the Voice button and saying “Poker Face” brings up results for the Peacock show, the Russell Crowe movie and a poker documentary from a free channel. Saying “Succession” gets you the show from Max as well as listings for other series and films with “success” in the title. It was pretty good at finding suggestions for more general searches, like “police procedural shows” and “Idris Elba,” though it had issues with recommendations for kids movies (not enough Disney+ results, in my opinion).

Navigation is speedy with minimal load times between apps. The remote has a nice layout with a large back button and the volume rocker on the side. The handy Instant Replay button jumps back 10 to 20 seconds and can even show subtitles for the replayed portion, if the app supports it. The only thing I didn’t love was the What to Watch menu, which was overwhelmingly populated with free content and had a minimal amount of titles sprinkled in from my paid apps. But since free content is where Roku really shines, I can’t be too miffed. — A.S. 

Pros

  • Built-in access to tons of free content
  • Accurate universal search
  • Supports 4K, HDR10+ and Dolby Vision content
Cons

  • What to Watch menu ignores content from other streamers

$39 at Amazon

Amazon

Operating system: Fire TV OS | Remote: Yes | Connectivity: Wi-Fi, Bluetooth | Display: No | Voice control: Yes

If price is of the utmost importance and you don’t need 4K, Amazon’s Fire TV Stick Lite is a decent alternative. At $30, it’s one of the cheapest streaming sticks on the market and it’s also frequently discounted, too. It supports FHD streaming with HDR and, just like its higher-end siblings, comes with an Alexa voice remote.

One of the reasons this is considered “Lite” is that this particular Fire TV Stick can’t control your TV; you still have to use your television remote to power it on and off or to adjust its volume. That’s not that big a deal, especially if it helps save you a few bucks. In comparison, the standard Fire TV Stick typically retails for $40, while the Fire TV Stick 4K costs $50.

Amazon’s Fire TV supports nearly all of the major streaming services, including Netflix, Hulu, Max, YouTube, YouTube TV and Hulu, among others. The Live page features Twitch out of the box as well. While you can’t use Alexa to control the TV, the Fire TV Stick Lite does let you use Alexa to search for shows and ask general questions like the weather forecast or the latest scores for your favorite sports team.

Despite its low price, the Fire TV Stick Lite is a decent streaming dongle. It comes with the updated Fire TV interface that adds features such as user profiles, a new main menu navigation bar with show recommendations, plus a scrolling list of your favorite streaming apps. The layout isn’t as unified as Google TV’s and is more complicated than Roku’s, but it’s still easy enough to figure out. That said, the interface prioritizes Amazon Prime Video content, and there are a lot more ads than on other streaming platforms. — Nicole Lee, Senior Editor

If you do want the ability to control your TV with the remote and are also looking for something that supports improved picture quality, you may want to upgrade to one of the more advanced Fire TV Sticks. At $60 (and often on sale for $45) the Amazon Fire TV Stick 4K Max not only handles Dolby Vision, Dolby Atmos, 4K and HDR10+, but it also supports Wi-Fi 6E. That means if you have a router that also carries the protocol, you could see better and faster connectivity. The 4K Max has the fastest processor of any Fire TV Stick, and we found it plenty zippy. It’s also the only Fire TV Stick that supports the new Ambient Experience: when enabled, or after the pause timeout kicks in, the dongle will display art (and widgets, if you want) on your TV, giving any screen the look of something like Samsung’s The Frame. — A.S.

Pros

  • Affordable
  • Supports all major streaming services
Cons

  • No 4K content support
  • Can’t control TV’s power and volume
  • UI heavily favors Amazon Prime Video content

$49 at Macy’s

Roku

Operating system: Roku OS | Remote: Yes | Connectivity: Wi-Fi, Bluetooth | Display: No | Voice control: No

The Roku Express has the same user interface as the Streaming Stick+, but it’s housed in a compact set-top box instead. It doesn’t support 4K or HDR and the remote control lacks a voice command button. But if all you want is a capable HD streaming device, the Express fits the bill. If you insist on having 4K, however, consider the Roku Express 4K+, which retails for $40. It’s very similar to the Express, except it carries support for 4K, HDR and AirPlay, and it comes with a voice remote as well. That could well make it worth the extra money. —N.L.

Pros

  • Affordable
  • Lots of free and live content
Cons

  • No 4K streaming support
  • No voice remote

$28 at Macy’s

Amy Skorheim for Engadget

Roku updated its most advanced streamer, the Roku Ultra, in 2024, giving it a faster processor, Wi-Fi 6 compatibility and a brand new remote. Like the previous generation, it supports 4K HDR10/10+ streaming, 100 Mbps Ethernet connection, Bluetooth streaming, AirPlay2 connectivity and voice commands with Alexa, Google Home and Roku Smart Home. The previous model had a microSD slot for external media, now there’s a USB port for local playback.

I used the Ultra for about a month and was impressed with the speed, image quality and the new remote — plus a couple of perks I hadn’t expected. The 4K TV I used for testing was new to me and whoever had watched it before had set it to 1080p. During setup, the Ultra prompted me to head to the TVs settings to adjust the video quality. It was a nice touch and not something all players do.

Flipping from app to app was nearly instantaneous. Changing my mind with the back button immediately returned to the home screen. I experienced no buffering issues or audio synching troubles and pairing up Bluetooth headphones was fast with glitch-free performance.

I really liked the new remote. Pick it up and the backlight kicks in, making it easy to control in a darkened room. Since it’s equipped with an always-on mic (which you have the option of turning off right on the remote) you can say, “Hey Roku, where’s the remote?” and it’ll start ringing. Even with the Roku and TV off, you can just say “Hey Roku, open Netflix” to turn on your TV and start up the app. A backlight and always-on feature will obviously drain the battery quicker, but in a month of using the remote, I only had to recharge it once, which is easy to do via USB-C.

The voice control function didn’t perform more complicated functions as easily, though. With the TV off, I asked it to continue playing a show I’d been watching and it turned on my PS5. While on the Roku home screen, I asked it to continue playing Gravity Falls, and was told there was no content to continue playing, even though my kid had been watching the show the day before. I often had better luck just holding down the mic button and speaking a search request as I’m used to doing with other players. The search function was accurate most of the time, presenting the correct movie or show and taking me to the app when I clicked on what I wanted.

Of course, as we said about the other Roku device on our list, the OS here is best at finding and presenting free and live content, with a live TV channel guide, a Featured Free content tab, a What to Watch section packed with stuff from no-cost providers like Tubi, plus the brand’s own Roku Channel. If you’re a fan of the Roku experience and want to get the most out of a higher-end TV, the Ultra is the set-top box to get. — A.S.

Pros

  • Excellent remote
  • High-quality video and audio
  • Lots of access to free and live content
  • USB port for playing local media
  • HDMI cable is included
Cons

  • Voice control struggles with complex requests
  • Interface is better at free content than organizing your paid apps

$72 at Amazon

Photo by Devindra Hardawar / Engadget

Operating system: tvOS | Remote: Yes | Connectivity: Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, Ethernet (optional) | Display: No | Voice control: Yes

When my colleague Devindra Hardawar reviewed the latest gen of the Apple TV 4K upon its debut in 2022, he called it “the best streaming box by a long shot.” In terms of picture quality, speed, longevity and Apple-engineered extras, that remains accurate. The set-top box supports 4K Dolby Vision and HDR10+, which makes compatible content look, to borrow Devindra’s term, glorious.

The A15 Bionic chip inside enables near-instantaneous loading of and switching between apps. Zooming from the beginning of an episode to the end or anywhere in between is not only quick, but also quite easy to do once you get the hang of the touch-sensitive directional pad on the Siri remote. Apple improved the box hardware over the previous generation, too, with a smaller, fan-less design.

You don’t have to be an Apple devotee to appreciate the streaming box, but having an iPhone makes setup easier, letting you hold your phone near the device to transfer credentials. If you use the Fitness+ app with an Apple Watch, not only can you watch workouts on a big screen, you’ll see live heart rate stats splashed in the corner as well. The app library is extensive, covering all of the most popular streaming services, plus countless Apple Arcade and other games. The remote’s Siri button lets you easily search for stuff to watch with voice commands, and typically gets you to the right app immediately. I found it nearly as good as other devices in suggesting content for more general queries like “sci-fi space movies.”

If you were waiting for the “but,” here it is: the Apple TV 4K is expensive. The base model is $129, which comes with 32GB of storage. The 128GB model goes for $149 and adds an Ethernet port and acts as a Thread-enabled home hub, a requirement for certain smart home devices. Also, if you’re looking for lots of free channels and live programming with an all-in-one home page to unify your disparate streaming subscriptions, this isn’t quite it.

The Apple TV app incorporates recently watched series into the Up Next section and your most-used apps appear in the Channels and Apps row. But the homepage is mostly a showcase for Apple TV+ series and movies. And don’t expect to see much in the way of Netflix content in the app either. Possibly due to a continuing grudge match between the two companies, Siri even has trouble finding Netflix shows at all — searching for Lupin only came back with results from the anime franchise and when I asked for All the Light We Cannot See, the AI turned off my smart lights. Finally, this premium streaming device doesn’t come with the HDMI cable required to hook it up to your TV. That’s a minor detail in the grand scheme of things, but it did cause me to fling grownup words in Cupertino’s general direction. — A.S.

Pros

  • Extremely fast operation
  • Apple Fitness+ and Arcade on a big screen
  • Support for 4K, HDR and Dolby Vision content
Cons

  • Expensive
  • Apple TV app heavily favors Apple TV+ content
  • Sub-par Netflix searches

$125 at Amazon

NVIDIA

Operating system: Android TV | Remote: Yes | Connectivity: Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, Ethernet, microSD card slot | Display: No | Voice control: Yes

For those who want an all-in-one device that lets you stream movies, run a PLEX media server and play games, consider NVIDIA’s Shield TV Pro. It currently runs Android TV, which is a little outdated at this point, but there’s a possibility that it could be upgraded to Google TV in the future.

Thanks to its capable Tegra X1+ processor, the NVIDIA Shield TV Pro can stream in native 4K and it can also upscale 720p and 1080p video to 4K with the company’s AI neural network. It also supports Dolby Vision and HDR10, has 3GB of RAM, 16GB of storage and two USB-C ports. Additionally, there’s a gigabit Ethernet port, an HDMI socket and a microSD card slot. Since it runs on Android, you can use it to play most games from the Google Play Store.

The main reason you’d choose the NVIDIA Shield TV Pro over other machines is that it gives you access to NVIDIA’s GeForce Now cloud gaming service. As long as you have a relatively speedy internet connection, you can play top-tier PC games that are streamed online to your Shield TV Pro. —N.L.

Pros

  • Supports 4K, HDR10 and Dolby Vision content
  • Provides access to NVIDIA’s GeForce Now cloud gaming service
  • Built-in Google Assistant support

$197 at Amazon

Microsoft

Operating system: Xbox OS | Remote: Yes | Connectivity: Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, Ethernet | Display: No | Voice control: Yes

Even though both Sony’s PlayStation 5 and the Xbox Series X can stream video, it’s the Xbox that we think is the best gaming console for the job. It can play 4K Blu-Rays and supports all of the usual streaming video apps including Apple TV+ and Disney+. However, the PS5 can’t stream Disney+ in 4K or Dolby Atmos, which is disappointing if you ever want to watch The Mandalorian in all its cinematic glory.

Fortunately, that’s not the case with the Xbox Series X. On top of that, the Xbox Series X (and S) also support Dolby Vision for streaming video, which is especially great for people with newer TVs. Of course, the Xbox is also a pretty great gaming machine, and it offers access to Game Pass, Microsoft’s subscription service that has a large library of titles. —N.L.

Pros

  • Provides access to all major streaming services
  • Plays 4K Blu-Rays

$550 at Adorama

Amazon

Our budget pick from Amazon doesn’t allow you to control your TV with the remote, nor does it support 4K image quality or Dolby Atmos. Amazon’s higher-end not only handles Dolby Vision, Dolby Atmos, 4K and HDR10+, but it also supports Wi-Fi 6E. The processor is pretty zippy and it even supports a fairly pleasant Ambient Experience, displaying art (and widgets) when the screen is idle, like on . It also lets Xbox Game Pass Ultimate subscribers via the app without an Xbox Series X or S console. And Engadget’s Jeff Dunn has gotten a lot of use from the stick as a . That’s a decent amount of utility from a $60 device (that’s often on sale for around $45).

That said, Amazon’s Fire TV interface is less elegant (and less democratic) than other UIs, highly prioritizing Prime Video content. It’s also notably ad-stuffed — promoting not just Amazon’s content, but products as well. — A.S.

Pros

  • Affordable 4K streaming
  • Additional gaming access
Cons

  • Ad-stuffed interface
  • Prioritizes Prime Video content

$45 at Amazon

The best SSDs for PS5 in 2025


When Sony first released the PlayStation 5, it wasn’t possible to expand the console’s storage. Thankfully, that changed with a software update that the company pushed out less than a year later. And with how big some game installs have become in recent years, it’s a good thing, too: the PS5’s built-in 667GB of space may have been good enough in the system’s first year, but now, the default drive is absolutely limiting.

The good news is a standard PCIe Gen4 x4 M.2 NVMe SSD can solve all of your PS5 storage woes. If that mess of acronyms has you recoiling, don’t worry: you’ll see that it’s not all that complicated. And if all you want to know is what the best PS5 SSDs are, we’ve got them right at the top.

Read more: These are the best SSDs in 2025

Corsair

Capacity: Up to 8TB | Sequential read performance: 7,100MB/s | Sequential write performance: 6,800MB/s | Connection: M.2

The Corsair MP600 Pro LPX makes it to the top of our list for the best PS5 SSD for being the complete package. It’s fast, offers excellent performance and read speeds of up to 7,100MB/s. It also comes with a pre-installed heatsink and a five-year warranty.

Best of all, the MP600 is affordable. After launching at $190, you can routinely find the 1TB variant on sale for as little as $80, while the 2TB model fluctuates in price between $110 and $150. The 4TB and 8TB models are less of a bargain. The MP600 is also not the fastest NVMe on this list. However, as far as no-fuss options go, it’s hard to beat.

Pros

  • Built-in heatsink
  • Affordable
Cons

  • Not the fastest Gen4 model

$85 at Amazon

Crucial

Capacity: Up to 4TB | Read performance: 7,300MB/s | Write performance: 6,800 MB/s | Connection: M.2

If you want to save a bit of money by installing your own heatsink, the Crucial T500 is a great option. With read speeds of up to 7,300MB/s, it surpasses Sony’s technical requirements, and you can frequently find the 1TB model on sale for as little as $60. Crucial also offers a version with a heatsink, so it’s worth adding both the Corsair MP600 and Crucial T500 to a price watch list and buying whichever model is cheaper when you’re ready to upgrade your PS5.

Pros

  • Fast
  • Available with or without heatsink

$88 at Amazon

SABRENT

Capacity: Up to 8TB | Sequential read performance: 7,000MB/s | Sequential write performance: 6,600MB/s | Connection: M.2

Of all the SSDs on this list, the Sabrent Rocket 4 Plus is the most interesting. It comes with a unique heatsink that you install in place of the storage expansion slot’s metal cover. Sabrent claims this design improves cooling performance. As a result, expect to pay more than you would for a model with a generic heatsink, with the 1TB variant coming in at around $110 and the 2TB model costing between $220 and $280.

Pros

  • PS5-specific heatsink design
Cons

  • Not as fast as other options
  • Expensive relative to other drives

$130 at Amazon

SAMSUNG

Capacity: Up to 4TB | Read performance: 1,050MB/s | Write performance: 1,000MB/s | Connection: USB 3.0

As I explain below, you can’t run PS5 games from an external drive — but you can use one to store any games you aren’t playing at the moment, including older PS4 games.

One of my favorite portable drives is the Samsung T7. It can write files at a speedy 1,000 MB/s. If you plan to use the drive exclusively for at-home use, you can save money by buying the regular model instead of the ruggedized Shield variant. I’ve been using T7 drives to store my photos, music and games for years, and they have yet to fail me. The latest model, the Samsung T9, boasts read/write speeds of up to 2,000MB/s.

Pros

  • Affordable
  • Reliable
  • Rugged variant available
Cons

  • Can’t play PS5 games from external drive

$90 at Amazon

I’ve tested most of the SSDs recommended on this list, either for PS5 or computer use. I also bought and used our top pick in my own PS5.

The PlayStation 5 and PlayStation 5 Pro can accept internal drives with between 250GB and 8TB of storage capacity. If you already own a PS5, chances are you have a reasonable idea of how much storage you need ​​for your game library. If you’re buying an SSD with a new PS5 or PS5 Pro, or buying for someone else, it’s more difficult to tell what you might need for a high-performance experience.

PS5 games are smaller on average than their PS4 equivalents, typically taking up between 30GB and 100GB, with some notable (and very popular) exceptions. If you’re a fan of the Call of Duty series, installing Black Ops 6 and Warzone 2.0 can eat up to 240GB. In other words, a full Call of Duty install will take up more than one-third of the PS5’s internal storage. If you’re not a CoD fan, though, chances are you’ll be good to store between six to 10 games on a regular PS5 internally before running into problems.

You also need to consider your internet speed. If you live in an area with slow broadband, the “you can just download it again” rationale doesn’t really work. At my old home, a 100GB download took me around eight hours, during which time it was difficult to simultaneously watch Twitch or, say, publish articles about upgrading PS5 SSDs. Keeping games around on the off-chance you’ll want to play them at some point makes sense.

Sony PlayStation 5 gaming console.Sony PlayStation 5 gaming console.

Aaron Souppouris / Engadget

Off the bat, there’s basically no point in going for a 250GB PS5 SSD. Economically, 250GB drives aren’t that much cheaper than 500GB ones — and practically, that really isn’t a lot of space for modern games to live on. 500GB drives can be a decent option, but after years of declining prices, I think the sweet spot for most people is to opt for a high-capacity 1TB or 2TB drive, which should run you at most $200. The latter will more than double the PS5 Pro’s storage without breaking the bank.

Unless you’re rolling in cash and want to flex, 4TB and 8TB models should mostly be avoided, as you’ll end up paying more per gigabyte than you would with a 1TB or 2TB drive.

While the 825GB PS5 only provides 667GB of storage, that’s largely due to storage being reserved for the operating system and caching. If you install a 1TB PS5 SSD, you’ll have, within a margin of error, 1TB of storage available for games. Out of the box, the PS5 Pro offers 1.86TB of storage for games, though you can eke out more if you delete the pre-installed Astro’s Playroom (gasp).

Since neither the PS5 Slim nor PS5 Pro feature updated CPU architecture, all of our recommendations will work with whatever PS5 model you own.

External hard drives tend to cost less than internal SSD counterparts (and there’s a good chance you might own one already). Unfortunately, there are restrictions on what you can do with them. An external SSD connects to your PS5 via USB, and is only suitable for playing PlayStation 4 games, or storing PS5 titles. That’s useful if you have anything but the best high-speed internet — it’s faster to move a PS5 game out of “cold storage” on an external drive than it is to re-download it — or want to keep your PS4 library on hand.

Due to the limitations here, you don’t need the highest-performing model, although you should opt for SSDs over HDDs for improved transfer speeds and load times. Any basic portable drive from a reputable brand will do, with the Crucial X9 Pro and Samsung T7 being options we’ve tried and can recommend.

The official answer to this question is an “M.2 Socket 3 (Key M) Gen4 x4 NVME SSD.” But even within that seemingly specific description, there are additional factors to consider. The main requirements Sony has laid out for compatibility come down to speed, cooling and physical dimensions.

For speed, Sony says drives should be able to handle sequential reads at 5,500MB/s. Early testing showed that the PS5 would accept drives as slow as 4,800MB/s, and that games that tap into the SSD regularly — such as Ratchet & Clank: Rift Apart — would cause no issues. Pretty much the only thing the PS5 will outright reject is one that doesn’t match the Gen4 x4 spec.

In our opinion, though, using a drive slower than the specification is a risk that, if you don’t already have that drive lying around, is not worth taking. Just because we haven’t found issues yet doesn’t mean there won’t be games that could be problematic in the future. The price difference between these marginally slower Gen4 drives and the ones that meet Sony’s spec isn’t huge, and you might as well cover all your bases.

Slightly more complicated than speed is cooling and size. Most new SSDs are going to be just fine; the PS5 can fit 22mm-wide SSDs of virtually any length (30mm, 40mm, 60mm, 80mm or 110mm, to be precise). The vast majority of drives you find will be 22mm wide and 80mm long, so no problem there.

It should be noted that the system can fit a 25mm-wide drive, but that width must include the cooling solution. Speaking of, Sony says SSDs require “effective heat dissipation with a cooling structure, such as a heatsink.” The maximum height supported by Sony’s slot is 11.25mm, of which only 2.45mm can be “below” the drive.

This previously meant some of the most popular heatsinked Gen4 SSDs, including Corsair’s MP600 Pro LP, would not fit within the PS5’s storage expansion slot. Since Engadget first published this guide in 2021, most NVMe makers, including Samsung, have come out with PlayStation-specific models that meet those requirements. That said, if you want to save some money, bare drives are often cheaper and it’s trivial to find a cooling solution that will work for the PS5.

The only component in an NVMe SSD that really requires cooling is the controller, which without a heatsink will happily sear a (very small) steak. Most SSDs have chips on only one side, but even on double-sided SSDs, the controller is likely to be on top, as manufacturers know it needs to be positioned there to better dissipate heat.

So, head to your PC component seller of choice and pick up basically anything that meets the recommended dimensions. A good search term is “laptop NVME heatsink,” as these will be designed to fit in the confines of gaming laptops, which are even more restrictive than a PS5. They’re also typically cheaper than the ones labeled as “PS5 heatsinks.”

One recommendation is this $6 copper heatsink, which attaches to the PS5 SSD with sticky thermal interface material. It works just fine, and in performing stress tests on a PC, we couldn’t find anything metal that didn’t keep temperatures under control. When you’re searching, just make sure the solution you go for measures no more than 25mm wide or 8mm tall (including the thermal interface material) and has a simple method of installation that’s not going to cause any headaches.

One last thing: When shopping for a PS5 NVMe, there’s no reason to buy a Gen5 model over a more affordable Gen4 model. As things stand, Sony’s console can’t take advantage of the new standard, and though Gen5 drives are backward compatible, they’re more expensive than their Gen4 counterparts. Just buy the fastest and highest-capacity Gen4 model you can afford.

If you need guidance on how to install your new NVMe into your PS5 or PS5 Pro, we have a separate guide detailing all the steps here. Installation is pretty straightforward, but our how-to can help you if you’re stuck. Just make note: Before attempting to add more storage via a PS5 SSD, ensure that you have Sony’s latest software installed.

The best gaming monitors in 2024


Let’s be honest: shopping for a gaming monitor can feel like wading through mud. As soon as you decide to buy a display for gaming instead of regular productivity use, a whole host of new considerations come into the equation. Should you go for an LCD or OLED monitor? What about the differences between NVIDIA G-Sync and AMD FreeSync? How about refresh rates?

Those are just some of the questions this guide aims to answer. In the process, my hope is to help you find the perfect gaming monitor for your budget.

AOC

Screen size: 27-inch | Resolution: 2,560 x 1,440 | Refresh rate: 180Hz | Panel type: VA | Response time: 1ms GtG | Aspect ratio: 16:9 | Brightness: 1000 cd/m² | Weight: 11.9 pounds with stand

The Q27G3XMN offers a nearly unbeatable mix of features, performance and affordability. It’s a mini-LED monitor with HDR performance that’s not as good as the OLEDs on this list, but far better than anything you’ll find on an edge-lit LCD. With a 180Hz refresh rate, it’s also fast enough for all but the most fast-paced competitive esports games. Best of all, it’s priced affordably at under $300. For those reasons, unless you have a bigger budget or more specific needs, the Q27G3XMN is going to be the best bet for most people.

Pros

  • Relatively affordable
  • True HDR performance
  • Fast enough
Cons

  • Expect some smearing
  • No USB ports

$250 at Amazon

AOC

Screen Size: 23.8-inch | Resolution: 1,920 x 1080 | Refresh Rate: 180 Hz | Panel Type: VA | Response Rate: 4ms (gtg) | Aspect Ratio: 16:9 | Brightness: 250 cd/m² | Weight: 6.9 pounds with stand

In 2024, there are only two reasons to buy a 1080p monitor: Either you want the fastest possible display, or you want to spend as little as possible and get as much performance as possible. If the latter is true, I would go for the AOC 24G15. For $110, you’ll get a 24-inch screen with a high contrast VA panel, 180Hz refresh rate and 1ms response rate. If you’re patient, I’ve seen the 24G15 go on sale for as little as $90.

One thing to note: AOC also sells a 27-inch version of the 24G15 for about $30 more. I would avoid that model; it won’t look good due to low pixel density.

Pros

  • Affordable
  • 180Hz refresh rate
  • 1ms response rate
Cons

  • Low resolution
  • Epect some smearing

$110 at Amazon

Alienware

Screen size: 26.7-inch | Resolution: 2,560 x 1,440 | Refresh rate: 360Hz | Panel type: QD-OLED | Response time: 0.03ms (GtG) | Aspect ratio: 16:9 | Brightness: 250 cd/m² | Weight: 9.4 pounds without stand

If you want a gaming monitor that basically does it all, the Alienware AW2725DF has a lot going for it. This QD-OLED features a 360Hz refresh rate and 0.03ms response. It also carries a Vesa DisplayHDR True Black 400 certification, so expect near-flawless HDR performance. It even has a HDMI 2.1 port if you want to use it with an Xbox Series X or PlayStation 5. From a performance standpoint, the only downside is that it won’t produce true blacks in rooms with too much ambient light. However, this is true of every QD-OLED monitor on the market right now.

At close to $1,000, it’s also expensive. But for what it’s worth, the OLED market is incredibly competitive at the moment. I’ve seen the AW2725DF go on sale a few times over the past couple of months, dropping to as low as $700.

Pros

  • 360Hz refresh rate
  • Fantastic HDR performance
  • Three-year burn-in coverage

$900 at Amazon

Dell

Screen size: 34.18-inch | Resolution: 3,440 x 1,440 | Refresh rate: 165 Hz | Panel type: QD-OLED | Response time: 0.01ms (GtG) | Aspect Ratio: 21:9 | Brightness: 250 cd/m² | Weight: 13.8 pounds with stand

For those looking for a more immersive gaming experience, an ultrawide monitor is the way to go. And right now, one of the best 21:9 displays you can buy is the Dell AW3423DWF. It offers an excellent 165Hz refresh rate, 0.01ms response time and AMD FreeSync Premium Pro support. The panel is also DisplayHDR TrueBlack 400 certified, making it great for watching movies and playing single-player games. The only feature that would make the AW3423DWF better is had Dell included an HDMI 2.1 port, but since ultrawide gaming isn’t really a thing in console gaming, the omission is not a deal breaker.

$900 at Dell

LG

Screen size: 31.46-inch | Resolution: 4K and 1080p | Refresh rate: 240Hz and 480Hz | Panel type: WOLED | Response time: 0.03ms (GtG) | Aspect ratio: 16:9 | Brightness: 275 cd/m² | Weight: 19.8 pounds with stand

If money is no object and you play a mix of immersive games and competitive shooters, the LG 32GS95UE-B is the monitor for you. It offers something no other monitor on this list does. The 32GS95UE-B4K is both a 4K, 240Hz display and an FHD, 480Hz one. Moreover, it can switch between those two modes with the press of a button.

Yes, the 1080p output looks muddy stretched across a 32-inch screen, but for a feature that extends the versatility of an already incredible monitor, that’s a small sacrifice. At $1,400, the 2GS95UE-B is the most expensive monitor on this list. But if you’re in the market for a 4K display, chances are you’ve already spent a lot of money building a PC that can drive that many pixels.

Pros

  • Dual 4K and 1080p modes
  • Up to 480Hz refresh rate
  • OLED
Cons

  • Very expensive
  • Low pixel density at FHD

$1,397 at Amazon

While I’ve not used every product recommended in our list, I have extensively tested dozens of gaming monitors in the past, including models with WOLED and QD-OLED panels. In the case of the Alienware monitor I highlight above, I bought one for myself with my own money. Separately, I spent dozens of hours over a two-year period researching gaming monitors to write the current version of this guide.

When shopping for a gaming monitor, you first need to decide if you want to go with a screen that has an LCD or OLED panel. For most people, that choice will come down to price; OLED gaming monitors are more expensive than their LCD counterparts. Even if money isn’t a concern, the choice might not be as straightforward as you think; both LCD and OLED panels come in a few different flavors, and knowing the differences between each type is important to making an informed decision.

LCD monitors come in three different varieties: twisted nematic (TN), vertical alignment (VA) or in-plane switching (IPS). For the most part, you want to avoid TN monitors unless you’re strapped for cash or want a monitor with the fastest possible refresh rate. TN screens feature the worst viewing angles, contrast ratios and colors of the group.

The differences between VA and IPS panels are more subtle. Historically, VA gaming monitors featured slower pixel response times than their TN and IPS counterparts, leading to unsightly image smearing. However, that’s improved in recent years. VA panels also frequently sport better contrast ratios than both TN and IPS screens. They’re not dramatically better than their IPS siblings on that front, but when contrast ratios aren’t an inherent strength of LCDs, every bit helps.

On the other hand, IPS panels excel at color accuracy and many offer refresh rates and response times that are as fast as the fastest TN panels. The majority of LCD gaming monitors on the market today feature IPS panels, though you will frequently find VA screens on ultrawide monitors.

If you can afford one, OLED screens make for the best gaming monitors. The ability of organic light-emitting diodes to produce true blacks is transformational. Simply put, every game looks better when there isn’t a backlight to wash out shadow detail. Plus, you can experience true HDR with an OLED screen, something that LCDs aren’t known for.

Today, OLED screens come in two different flavors: WOLED and QD-OLED, with LG producing the former and Samsung the latter. I won’t bore you with the technical details of how the two panel types differ from one another other than to note both technologies broadly offer the same set of shortcomings.

Most notably, OLED monitors don’t get very bright. At best, the most capable models peak at around 250 nits when measuring brightness across the entire screen. I didn’t find this to be an issue in my testing, but your experience may vary depending on the ambient light in your gaming room.

If brightness is important to you, note that due to manufacturer tunings, different models can perform better than others, even if they feature the same panel from LG or Samsung. It’s worth comparing monitors in the same class to find the model that’s right for you.

Separately, almost all OLEDs feature sub-pixel layouts that produce text fringing in Windows. The latest generation of OLED panels from both LG and Samsung are much better in this regard, to the point where modern OLEDs are good enough for reading and image editing. However, it’s still worth going to your local Micro Center or Best Buy to see the model you want in person, as the text fringing issue is hard to capture in photos and videos.

Another (potentially more serious) issue is burn-in. Organic light-emitting diodes can get “stuck” if they display the same image for long periods of time. Every OLED gaming monitor you can buy today comes with features designed to prevent burn-in and other image retention issues. Provided you don’t use your new OLED monitor for eight hours of daily productivity work, I don’t think you need to worry about burn-in too much.

After deciding where you fall on the LCD vs OLED debate, you can start thinking about the size of your future gaming monitor. Personal preference and the limitations of your gaming space will play a big part here, but there are also a few technical considerations. You should think about size in conjunction with resolution and aspect ratio.

A 1440p monitor has 78 percent more pixels than a 1080p screen, and a 4K display has more than twice as many pixels as a QHD panel. As the size of a monitor increases, pixel density decreases unless you also increase resolution. For that reason, there are sweet spots between size and resolution. For instance, I wouldn’t recommend buying an FHD monitor that is larger than 24 inches or a QHD one bigger than 27 inches. Conversely, text and interface elements on a 4K monitor can look tiny without scaling on panels smaller than 32 inches.

You also need to consider the performance costs of running games at higher resolutions. The latest entry-level GPUs can comfortably run most modern games at 1080p and 60 frames per second. They can even render some competitive titles at 120 frames per second and higher — but push them to run those same games at 1440p and beyond, and you’re bound to run into problems. And as you’ll see in a moment, a consistently high frame rate is vital to getting the most out of the latest gaming monitors.

If your budget allows for it, 1440p offers the best balance between visual clarity and gaming performance. As for 1080p and 4K, I would only consider the former if you’re on a tight budget or you exclusively play competitive shooters like Valorant and Overwatch 2. For most people, the user experience and productivity benefits of QHD far outweigh the performance gains you get from going with a lower resolution screen.

Just a few years ago, 4K was not a viable resolution for PC gaming, but then NVIDIA came out with its 40 series GPUs. With those video cards offering the company’s DLSS 3 frame generation technology, there’s a case to be made that the technology is finally there to play 4K games at a reasonable frame rate, particularly if you exclusively play big, AAA single-player games like Alan Wake 2 and Cyberpunk 2077 or enjoy strategy games like the Total War series. However, even with frame generation, you will need a GPU like the $999 RTX 4080 Super or $1,599 RTX 4090 to drive a 4K display. Plus, 4K gaming monitors tend to cost more than their 1440p counterparts.

If you want an ultrawide, note that not every game supports the 21:9 aspect ratio, and fewer still support 32:9. When shopping for a curved monitor, a lower Radius, or ‘R’ number, indicates a more aggressive curve. So, a 1000R monitor is more curved than an 1800R one.

The best gaming monitorThe best gaming monitor

Photo by Igor Bonifacic / Engadget

And now, finally, for the fun stuff. The entire reason to buy a gaming monitor is for its ability to draw more images than a traditional PC display. As you shop for a new screen, you will see models advertising refresh rates like 120Hz, 240Hz and 360Hz. The higher the refresh rate of a monitor, the more times it can update the image it displays on screen every second, thereby producing a smoother moving image. When it comes to games like Overwatch, Valorant and League of Legends, a faster refresh rate can give you a competitive edge, but even immersive single-player games can benefit.

A monitor with a 360Hz refresh rate will look better in motion than one with a 240Hz or 120Hz refresh rate, but there are diminishing returns. At 60Hz, the image you see on your monitor is updated every 16.67ms. At 120Hz, 240Hz and 360Hz, the gap between new frames shortens to 8.33ms, 4.17ms and 2.78ms, respectively. Put another way, although a 360Hz monitor can display 50 percent more frames than a 240Hz screen in a given time period, you will only see a speedup of 1.14ms between frame intervals. And all that depends on your GPU’s ability to render a consistent 360 frames per second.

Ultimately, a fast monitor will do you no good if you don’t have a graphics card that can keep up. For example, with a 1440p 360Hz monitor, you realistically need a GPU like the RTX 4070 Super or RTX 4080 Super to saturate that display while playing competitive games like Overwatch 2 and Valorant.

There’s also more to motion clarity than refresh rates alone. Just as important are response times, or the amount of time it takes for pixels to transition from one color to another and then back again. Monitors with slow response times tend to produce smearing that is distracting no matter what kind of game you’re playing. Unfortunately, response times are also one of the more opaque aspects of picking the best gaming monitor for your needs.

Many LCD monitor manufacturers claim their products feature 1ms gray-to-gray (GtG) response times, yet they don’t handle motion blur to the same standard. One of the reasons for that is that many companies tend to cherry-pick GtG results that make their monitors look better on paper. The Video Electronics Standards Association (VESA) recently created a new certification program to address that problem, but the grading system is unwieldy and, as far as I can tell, hasn’t had a lot of pickup from manufacturers.

For now, your best bet is to turn to resources like Rtings and Monitors Unboxed when shopping for a new gaming monitor. Both outlets conduct extensive testing of every screen they review and present their findings and recommendations in a way that’s easy to understand.

No matter how powerful your system, it will sometimes fail to maintain a consistent framerate. In fact, you should expect frame rate fluctuations when playing graphically-intensive games like Alan Wake 2 and Cyberpunk 2077. For those moments, you want a gaming display with adaptive sync. Otherwise, you can run into screen tearing.

Adaptive sync technologies come in a few flavors. The two you’re most likely to encounter are AMD FreeSync and NVIDIA G-Sync, and each has its own set of performance tiers. With G-Sync, for instance, they are – from lowest to highest – G-Sync Compatible, G-Sync and G-Sync Ultimate.

The good news is that you don’t need to think too much about which adaptive sync technology a display supports. In the early days of the tech, it was rare to see a gaming monitor that offered both FreeSync and G-Sync since including the latter meant a manufacturer had to equip their display with a dedicated processor from NVIDIA. That changed in 2019 when the company introduced its G-Sync Compatible certification. In 2024, if a monitor supports FreeSync, it is almost certainly G-Sync Compatible, too, meaning you can enjoy tear-free gaming whether you’re using an AMD or NVIDIA GPU.

In fact, I would go so far as to say you shouldn’t make your purchasing decision based on the level of adaptive sync performance a monitor offers. As of 2024, the list of G-Sync Ultimate-certified displays is about two dozen models long, and some are a few years old now.

The best gaming monitorThe best gaming monitor

Photo by Igor Bonifacic / Engadget

Almost every gaming display on the market right now comes with at least one DisplayPort 1.4 connection, and that’s the port you will want to use to connect your new monitor to your graphics card. If you own a PS5 or Xbox Series X/S, it’s also worth looking out for monitors that come with HDMI 2.1 ports, as those will allow you to get the most out of your current generation console.

As fast and responsive gaming monitors have become in recent years, there’s one area where progress has been frustratingly slow: HDR performance. The majority of gaming monitors currently on sale, including most high-end models, only meet VESA’s DisplayHDR 400 certification. As someone who owned one such monitor, let me tell you it’s not even worth turning on HDR on those screens. You will only be disappointed.

The good news is that things are getting better, albeit slowly. The release of Windows 11 did a lot to improve the state of HDR on PC, and more games are shipping with competent HDR modes, not just ones that increase the brightness of highlights. Thankfully, with more affordable mini-LED monitors, like our top pick, making their way to the market, HDR gaming is finally within reach of most PC gamers.

It depends on personal preference. Many manufacturers claim curved monitors offer a more immersive gaming experience due to the way the display wraps around your field of vision. However, I find the edge distortion distracting, particularly when you increase the field of view in a game.

The vast majority of 24-, 27- and 32-inch gaming monitors feature 16:9 aspect ratio panels, and that’s been the case for many years. In fact, nearly every game made in the last two decades supports 16:9 resolutions, such as 1,920 x 1,080 and 2,560 by 1,440, and if you buy a standard-sized monitor, you won’t need to worry about letterboxing.

In the case of ultrawides, 21:9 is the most common aspect ratio, with some very wide models sporting 32:9 panels. Among games, support for 21:9 and 32:9 resolutions is far from universal, so don’t be surprised if a game doesn’t fill the entirety of your screen.

OLED monitors are great for gaming. Not only do they offer excellent motion clarity and input latency, but they’re also easily the best displays for HDR gaming. If money is no object, and you primarily use your PC for gaming, you can’t go wrong with an OLED monitor.

While you could easily spend more than $1,000 to obtain the best gaming monitor on the market now, the reality is that the budget and midrange categories have never been more competitive. In 2015, I spent $500 CAD to buy a 1080p monitor with a 144Hz refresh rate and TN panel. The budget AOC model I highlight above is not only cheaper than my first gaming monitor, but it also features a faster 180Hz refresh rate and a higher contrast VA panel.

The best gifts for coffee lovers in 2024


Coffee grinders come in all shapes and sizes and with varying degrees of performance. You can get a solid Cuisinart for less than $40 that will serve you well, but if you’re looking to impress the coffee aficionado in your life with a nice gift, you’ll have to do better. Baratza’s Encore grinder has been a popular choice among roasters and coffee pros for a while now. It’s a little pricey for a grinder, but it offers a ton of attractive features that will immediately improve brewing regardless of method.

The controls are simple: There’s an on/off button on the side and a pulse button on the front. The Encore offers 40 grind settings so you can get the exact coffee you need for automatic brewers, AeroPress, Chemex, French press and more. This grinder is also relatively compact, so it won’t take up a lot of counter space, and it fits nicely under your cabinets.

The best DACs for Apple Music Lossless in 2024


A lot of people started to care about “high resolution” digital audio when Apple launched its upgraded music service to the masses. Call that the “Apple effect,” as infuriating as it may be, but the iPhone maker isn’t the only one in the hi-res audio game: Qobuz, Tidal and Deezer have been doing it for a while, and Spotify has been toying with releasing its own version for a while. However, as many were quick to point out, some of Apple’s own products don’t necessarily support the higher sample rate and bit-depths on offer. No worries, there’s a dongle for that, and there are options for Android and desktop, too. We’ve tested dozens of these devices and the best DACs listed in this guide will play nice with any of the aforementioned services (aside from Tidal’s MQA, which is a little more specific).

Best DACS for Apple Lossless 2021.Best DACS for Apple Lossless 2021.

James Trew / Engadget

A digital-to-analog converter takes the digital (D) music from your phone or computer and converts (C) it into analog (A) sound you can hear. All phones and PCs have them, but since handsets moved to USB-C, Lightning or Bluetooth for music, the task of converting that signal was generally outsourced to either your adapter or your wireless headphones.

DACs can be used with phones, laptops and desktops but tend to be much simpler than a regular external audio interface. One basic distinction is that DACs are usually for listening only whereas an audio interface might have ports to plug in microphones and instruments (but an external audio interface is also technically a DAC). Some high-end DACs even include XLR outputs for better connectivity with professional audio equipment.

The best DACs tend to be lightweight, making them more suitable for mobile use, although it still gets a little tricky with the iPhone as you still might need to add another dongle to make it play nice with Lightning. Also, not all DACs support all the higher audio resolutions like DSD. Most standalone DACs require external power or an onboard battery, though some can use the power from whatever you plug them into — in which case expect a hit to your battery life.

HiFiGo

Outputs: 3.5mm singled-ended | Inputs: Available in USB-C and Lightning versions | Max file support: 32-Bit/384kHz | Bluetooth: No

If you’re looking for the simplest way to listen to Apple Music Lossless, then the company’s own $8 dongle is hard to beat in terms or quality to price. But it has a maximum resolution of 24-bit/48 kHz. If you want to break into Hi-Res Lossless then the KA11 from Fiio — with support for audio at an eye-watering 32bit/384KHz — is the easiest way. At $30, it’s also pretty affordable, too.

Fiio’s years of experience making portable hi-fi has been distilled into this tiny little dongle. Available in both Lighting and USC-C models (love the color of the Apple model), the KA11 packs a lot of punch for something so small. On top of the support for extremely high audio resolutions, the KA11 also has a much higher output than most adapters — including Apple’s. The result is much louder music than your phone offers for most headphones, and with a better DAC like this, you’ll notice a significant improvement in your audio system. If you already have a pair of expensive headphones with a low sensitivity (as many higher end models tend to be) then the KA11 will likely still be able to drive them. You might even consider pairing it with a headphone amp for even more power.

This little dongle isn’t restricted to phones: the USB-C model is compatible with laptops and PCs, too. In fact, it’s likely a decent upgrade over the built-in sound for almost anything you plug it into. That’s true for all of the products recommended in this guide, but you might be surprised to find that something this small can give your PC’s audio system a serious boost. If there was a minor negative, it would be that the KA11 doesn’t support headset microphones, so if you were hoping to be able to handle calls with your headphones then bear that in mind.

With the KA11 being so small, there are no physical controls, so you’ll adjust volume directly on the phone or computer. The only feedback you have is a single LED that will change color depending on the audio it’s receiving (yellow indicates Hi-Res). Fiio also has a mobile app to access additional settings for its mobile products which, right now does include the KA11, but only on Android at time of publication.

Pros

  • Affordable
  • 32-Bit/384kHz support
  • Provides loud music output
  • Comes in USB-C and Lightning models

$30 at HiFiGo

Creative

Outputs: Bluetooth | Inputs: USB-C | Max file support: 24-Bit/96kHz | Bluetooth: Yes | Weight: 0.16 ounces

While most Android devices support some form of aptX, your PC might not. If you have an iPhone, it definitely doesn’t support aptX and neither will any Macs — Apple devices only offer standard Bluetooth with AAC encoding (320 kbit/s max bitrate). If you want to make sure you’re getting more bits (up to 430 kbit/s) out of your music, across all your devices, Creative’s BT-W5 Bluetooth adapter is both practical and affordable.

The BT-W5 offers aptX, aptX HD and aptX Adaptive (which supports up to 24-bit/96 kHz) and it’ll automatically choose the best one for your headphones. Once you pair them with the adapter you can plug the BT-W5 into any music source with USB-C for improved Bluetooth audio — there’s even a low latency mode perfect for streamers or playing games on Switch, for example, without any lag.

If you have an iPhone with a Lightning connector, the BT-W5 won’t work without an adapter, but it’s a neat way to get the most out of your headphones without having to upgrade everything else. The BT-W5 can remember up to four sets of headphones, too, so if you have a pair for the commute and another set for the gym, just plug in the dongle and you’re all set.

Pros

  • Designed for use with Bluetooth headphones
  • Low-latency mode for use with devices like Nintendo Switch
Cons

  • Will not work with Lightning iPhones without adapter

$53 at Amazon

Fanmusic

Outputs: 1x 3.5mm single-ended, 1x 4.4mm balanced | Inputs: USB-C | Max file support: 32-Bit/384kHz | Bluetooth: No | Weight: 1.1 ounces

While you can squeeze an impressive amount of audio tech into a headphone adapter, a slightly bigger device affords a decent step up in both specs and features. Moondrop’s Moonriver T2i DAC is slightly larger than a pack of gum, and it has a stylish design that doesn’t look like a boring, generic dongle.

Importantly, the Moonriver T2i builds on the success of the company’s Moonriver 2 DAC. The “2” partly refers to the use of dual DAC chips here, which delivers a “balanced” signal. Each channel can handle up to 32bit/384KHz resolution and there are two headphone ports. One for standard 3.5mm headphones and another for 4.4mm connections — making use of that balanced output. If this is your first step into the world of Hi-Fi DACs, you’re totally fine with 3.5mm headphones, but some prefer the 4.4mm connector as it provides more power and potential signal benefits, especially if you’re using a headphone amp.

With the Moonriver T2i you have a couple more practical advantages. For one, there are physical volume controls on the device itself. If you ever felt that the 16 levels of loudness on the iPhone (I just counted) weren’t enough, then the 100 steps of adjustment on the Moonriver T2i (via companion software) eliminate any worries about setting the music to the perfect level. If your headphones have an in-line microphone, the good news is that this dongle will pass that through to your phone or PC so you won’t need a separate device for calls.

Most importantly, the sound that comes out of the Moonriver T2i is bright and bold. You’ll hear audiophiles talk about sound stage, detail and width, all you need to know is that this DAC ticks off all the buzzwords and serves up bright, robust sound that’s going to make any lossless/hi-res music really shine.

Pros

  • Stylish design
  • 32-Bit/384kHz support
  • Onboard volume controls
  • Great sound quality

$190 at Amazon

CHORD ELECTRONICS

Outputs: 1x 3.5mm singled-ended, 1x 4.4mm balanced | Inputs: 1x microUSB, 1x 3,5mm coaxial, 1x optical, 1x USB-C | Max file support: 32-Bit/768kHz | Bluetooth: No | Weight: 10.8 ounces

If you’ve had some experience with DACs and are looking to ratchet things up a notch or three, then the Mojo 2 from British company Chord wants to have a word. At $650, this is definitely in the high-end price range, but the experience and features it offers make it worth considering for serious audiophiles. But the brains behind the Mojo 2 have been making digital to analog converters pretty much since there was digital music to even convert. That experience is what makes the Mojo 2 a favorite among music fans.

Most options in this guide are designed for mobile devices first, the Mojo 2 is more of a hybrid device. The mobile dongles above all take their power from the player you connect them to, which is convenient, but obviously is less kind to your phone’s battery life. The Mojo 2 has an internal cell so won’t tax the one in your phone or laptop. It’s small enough to be portable, but substantial enough to live on your desk.

Unlike most DACs that use off the shelf chips to handle the digital-to-audio conversion, the Mojo 2 uses field programmable gate array (FPGA) technology to create its own custom “chip.” It’s also powerful enough to act as both a DAC and a preamp, driving even power-hungry headphones with ease. We’ve seen FPGA gain popularity in gaming circles for its ability to imitate various consoles, but that same flexibility is what makes it interesting to the audio engineers at Chord.

If you need something that’s capital L loud, then the Mojo 2 will not disappoint. Proceed with caution here. It’s actually powerful enough to drive two pairs of headphones at the same time and has two 3.5mm ports so you can do exactly that. The curious circular buttons can also be used to change sound profiles with an excruciating level of detail.

The Mojo 2 has standard USB-C, microUSB, optical and coax inputs so it’s more flexible than a lot of its competition in this regard. Although it’s worth noting that you can only charge the Mojo 2 via microUSB. Of course, there’s a cable provided for this, but if you’ve fully made the switch to USB-C, it’ll mean you have to guard the charging cable closely.

Pros

  • Provides loud music output
  • 32-Bit/768kHz support
  • Onboard controls to change sound profiles
Cons

  • Expensive
  • Must charge device using microUSB

$650 at Amazon

FiiO

Outputs: 1x 3.5mm singled-ended, 1x 4.4mm balanced | Inputs: 1x USB, 1x optical, 1x coaxial, 1x AUX | Max file support: 32-Bit/384kHz | Bluetooth: No | Weight: 2.51 pounds

If you do most of your listening at home, the K7 from Fiio is a great place to start. The world of desktop DACs and headphone amplifiers could fill its own guide, but the K7 is both capable, feature-filled and reasonably priced. It functions as both a DAC and a headphone amp, making it a solid all-in-one solution for audiophiles building a home audio system.

With phono, coaxial, optical and USB inputs, the K7 from Fiio is able to handle music and audio from almost any high fidelity source. Most traditional desktop audio interfaces support playback of up to 24 bit/48 kHz, the K7 can handle files all the way up to 384 kHz at 32-bit – perfect for those who demand a better DAC for high-resolution files, whether you’re listening via headphones or a full audio system.

On the front you’ll find two inputs: a 1/4-inch jack and a 4.4mm balanced headphone port along with a big ol’ volume dial. While its Hi-Fi aesthetic might not be the most razzle-dazzle, it does have an RGB LED around the dial to give it a pop of color (it also changes color depending on the “quality” of your audio source).

There are two versions of the K7, and if you plonk down another $50 you get Bluetooth receiver functionality. This doesn’t mean you can connect wireless headphones, rather you can listen to music from wireless sources, such as your phone while maintaining a physical connection to your PC. If your phone can serve up music in higher-resolution codecs like aptX HD, aptX Adaptive or LDAC (or if it can’t, read about the BT-W5 above) you can listen to it through the K7.

Pros

  • A good variety of inputs
  • 32-Bit/384kHz support
Cons

  • Only for desktop use
  • Must pay extra for Bluetooth connectivity

$200 at Amazon

DAC stands for digital to analogue converter. It’s a device that takes digital files, stored on a laptop, computer, etc., and converts them into audio that we can listen to with better clarity and depth. Devices that provide sound, like a CD player, Blu-ray player, TV box, and so on, require good DACs so that the digital files can be decoded in order to output audio. Most of the time, a DAC is built-in to these devices, but sometimes they are external and require a power supply.

The short answer is, you don’t. You can play “hi-res” audio files on most phones and PCs, you just might not be getting the full experience. If your device’s audio interface tops out at 44.1 or 48kHz (which is fairly common and covers the vast majority of music online) then that’s the experience you’ll get. If you want to enjoy better sounding music at a higher sample rate and bit-depth (aka resolution), you’ll need an interface that supports it and wired headphones, potentially using a headphone amp for an enhanced experience.

It’s worth pointing out that “lossless” and “hi-res” are related terms, but not the same thing and will vary from service to service. Apple uses ALAC encoding which is compressed, but without “loss” to the quality (unlike the ubiquitous .aac or .mp3 file formats). CDs were generally mastered to at least 16-bit / 44.1kHz which is the benchmark that Apple is using for its definition of lossless. In audio circles, a general consensus is that hi-res is anything with a sample rate above 44.1kHz. Increasingly, though, the term is being used for anything 96kHz and above.

This, of course, isn’t only about Apple’s new streaming formats. External DACs and audio interfaces are a great way to get the best sound and upgrade your listening experience generally. Especially if you want to get into the world of more exotic (read: pricey) headphones, as they often even require a DAC to provide enough clean digital signal to drive them. For audiophile headphones, a phone or laptop’s internal sound chipset often doesn’t have the oomph needed to deliver a hi-fi experience, meaning a better DAC could make all the difference in sound quality.

No. Well, yes, but see above. A Lightning or USB-C to 3.5mm headphone adapter often is an audio interface and most of the ones you’re buying for $7 (or that come free in the box) do not support hi-res audio beyond 48kHz / 24-bit. Android is a little more complicated, as some adapters are “passive” and really just connect you to the phone’s internal DAC like old school headphones. Others (active ones) have a DAC built-in and good luck finding out what your specific phone and the in-box adapter delivers. (Hint: connect it to a PC and see if it comes up as an audio interface. You might find some details there if it does).

Chances are that over the last few years you’ve migrated from wired to wireless headphones (thanks, Apple). The world of Bluetooth headphones changes things a little when it comes to seeking better audio performance. What matters here is twofold, the headphones you’re using (as those will technically be the “DAC”) and the codec — the method used to send the musical data over to the headphones. It’s worth checking to see if your headphones support aptX and which version — aptX HD, aptX Adaptive are better than standard and becoming more common. Other systems exist, like Sony’s LDAC, but Qualcomm’s AptX has wider support thanks to its prevalence in Android devices. Some high-end wireless headphones might even come with a headphone jack for wired connections when higher-quality audio is needed.

The best Windows laptops for 2024


Choosing the best Windows laptop can be overwhelming with the wealth of options available. And with Microsoft’s recent announcements at Microsoft Build, we can expect lots of exciting things coming out in the next few months as more Copilot PCs become available. Whether you need a premium ultraportable, a powerful gaming rig, or a versatile mobile workstation, our current list of the best Windows laptops highlights our favorites that have been rigorously tested by our team. You may even find a Windows laptop that suits you better than an Apple MacBook if you’re looking to make the switch. For those on a budget, check out our list of the best cheap Windows laptops to find great options that won’t break the bank.

The challenge when thinking about performance is figuring out your sweet spot. That’s because while a Microsoft Windows laptop with blazing speed is nice, you may be paying for more oomph than you need. But if you skimp and get a weak processor, even simple tasks can become a chore and you might end up in a situation where you need to upgrade again sooner than you’d like. Thankfully, many laptops come in multiple configurations at the point of purchase. You can opt for a model with more processing power or discrete graphics, for example, if you want to do more than just web browsing. Good performance is more than just clockspeeds too, so we also consider things like fast wake times, storage speeds, multitasking and more advanced features like support for ray tracing, especially when a high-end graphics card is involved.

Regardless of whether a notebook has a touchscreen or a more traditional panel, we look for bright displays (300+ nits or more) that are easy use outdoors or in sunny rooms, accurate colors and wide viewing angles. Screens with high refresh rates are great for competitive gamers, while those with wider color gamuts are important for content creation and video editing. And even if you don’t plan on spending a ton of time on video calls, every laptop needs a decent webcam (1080p or higher).

Even with advancements in cellular modems and WiFi, dedicated ports for transferring data or connecting peripherals can make or break a laptop. Ideally, all but the thinnest and lightest systems come with three USB ports, while things like built-in SD card readers can be extremely handy when trying to import media from a camera. And if a notebook is saddled with a slow or outdated WiFi modem (we’re looking for Wi-Fi 6 or later), that’s basically an immediate disqualification.

It doesn’t matter how powerful a laptop is if it conks out when you need it the most. Typically we look for runtimes of at least eight hours on a charge, but when it comes to good battery life, longer is always better. That said, on gaming machines with thirsty graphics cards, you may have to settle for a bit less. And on bigger machines, it’s also important to consider if the system can charge via USB-C or if it needs a larger, proprietary power brick.

Photo by Devindra Hardawar / Engadget

Screen size: 13-inch | Touchscreen: Can be configured | Processor: Intel Ultra 7 Processor 155H or Snapgradon X Elite | Installed memory: Up to 64GB | Storage: Up to 2TB | Weight: 2.6 pounds | Battery life: Up to 18 hours

Read our full Dell XPS 13 review

It’s no surprise that we love the Dell XPS 13. It’s thin, lightweight and it has one of the best screens you can find on a 13-inch ultraportable. The latest XPS 13 model is the slimmest yet, though it loses the headphone jack in the process. But it also includes either Intel’s Ultra 7 Processor 155H or the new Snapgradon X Elite CPU, so you’re getting the most up-to-date processor options available. Aside from a somewhat tricky to use “invisible” trackpad, we have few gripes with the lates XPS 13. It has a stellar, svelte design, a gorgeous display, a fantastic keyboard and solid performance to match. Just be prepared to pay a premium for all of the new features and upgraded specs.

Pros

  • Attractive and modern design
  • Solid performance for an ultraportable
  • Excellent keyboard
  • Gorgeous display
Cons

  • Invisible trackpad leads to usability issues
  • Function keys disappear in sunlight
  • Trackpad feels sluggish at 60Hz
  • Could use more ports
  • Expensive

$1,249 at Dell

acer

Screen size: 15-inch | Touchscreen: No | Processor: 11th-gen Intel Core i3 | Installed memory: 8GB | Storage: 128GB | Weight: 3.64 pounds | Battery life: Up to 10 hours

There’s a reason we selected the Acer Aspire 5 as our top choice in our best budget Windows laptop guide: It’s sturdy, fast enough and offers good battery life. It also comes with a Windows 11 Home (S Mode) operating system with advanced security features. We typically don’t expect much with laptops under $500, but the Aspire 5 has consistently been a solid performer. It’s an ideal laptop for students or kids, or for anyone who isn’t particularly demanding. We’re also surprised by the port selection it offers, including HDMI and Ethernet. While we normally don’t recommend laptops with just 8GB of RAM and tiny 128GB SSDs, those specs are more excusable in the Aspire 5 since it’s so darn cheap. Just think of it as a slightly more capable Chromebook, but one that can launch multiple apps and do a bit more than just web browsing.

Pros

  • Includes HDMI and Ethernet ports
  • Sturdy design
  • Decent performance for the price

$375 at Amazon

Will Lipman Photography for Engadget

Screen size: 14-inch | Touchscreen: No | Processor: AMD Ryzen 7/9 | Installed memory: Up to 16GB | Storage: Up to 1TB | Weight: 3.53 pounds | Battery life: Up to 10 hours

Read our full ASUS ROG Zephyrus G14 review

One of our favorite gaming PCs for years, the ROG Zephyrus G14 remains our choice as the best gaming laptop for most users. It weighs just 3.5 pounds, it sports AMD’s powerful new Ryzen chips and it also has the company’s fastest Radeon RX 6000-series mobile graphics. The ROG Zephyrus G14 has a sleek retro-future aesthetic, a comfortable keyboard and a smooth 144Hz, 14-inch screen. While you’d be more immersed in a 15-inch notebook, those typically cost more and are far heavier than the Zephyrus G14. If you’re looking for a balance between good performance, style and value, the G14 is an excellent option.

Pros

  • Powerful performance
  • Sleek design
  • Great 14-inch, 144Hz screen
Cons

  • A little on the heavy side

$1,299 at ASUS

Photo by Devindra Hardawar / Engadget

Screen size: 13-inch | Touchscreen: Yes | Processor: Snapdragon X Plus/X Elite | Installed memory: Up to 32GB | Storage: Up to 1TB | Weight: 1.97 pounds | Battery life: Up to 14 hours

Read our full Microsoft Surface Pro Copilot+ review

The Surface Pro is everything we’ve wanted the Surface tablet line to be for years. It’s incredibly fast and efficient, thanks to Qualcomm’s new Snapdragon X Elite and Plus chips. Its neural processing unit (NPU) also enables potentially powerful AI features, though the current crop won’t be useful to everyone. We’re also still waiting to see Microsoft’s controversial Recall feature in action, which has been delayed to address its many security concerns.

The new OLED screen option looks wonderful: It makes colors pop off the screen and also ensures inky dark black levels. Coupled together with surprisingly powerful speakers, the Surface Pro is a solid option for watching video on the go.

When it’s paired together with the new Surface Pro Flex keyboard ($350), you can type and mouse around the Surface completely wirelessly, which opens up entirely new ways of using it. As long as there’s a small table nearby, or somewhere to prop up the tablet, you can work with just a thin and light keyboard on your lap. It’s also nice to see Microsoft pack in 16GB of RAM with the base Surface Pro model.

While we’d still like to see the company bundle in a keyboard and refine its kickstand, the Surface Pro remains one of the most innovative PCs available today.

Pros

  • Snapdragon X Elite and Plus chips are wonderfully fast
  • Solid battery life
  • Excellent OLED screen option
  • NPU allows for powerful AI features
  • Flex keyboard makes it more versatile
  • Solid AI features
Cons

  • All keyboards sold separately
  • Still hard to use in your lap
  • Gets expensive quickly

$999 at Microsoft

Photo by Sam Rutherford / Engadget

Screen size: 14-inch | Touchscreen: Yes | Processor: 13th-gen Intel Core i7 | Installed memory: 16GB | Storage: Up to 1TB | Weight: 3.09 pounds | Battery life: Up to 14 hours

Read our full Lenovo Yoga 9i review

Adaptability is the biggest strength of a 2-in-1, with devices like the Yoga 9i capable of transforming into a number of different modes at a moment’s notice. And even though it’s got a relatively portable 14-inch OLED display, Lenovo still found room on the Yoga 9i for three USB-C ports, a fingerprint scanner and a clever rotating soundbar to ensure audio sounds good in any position. Lenovo also includes a free stylus in the box though, sadly, unlike previous models there isn’t a dedicated storage slot for it on the machine anymore. And while its general design hasn’t changed much, Lenovo has improved the Yoga 9i’s performance with updated 13th-gen Intel processors. There are also various configurations to choose from, including the choice between a Windows 11 Home or Pro operating system.

Pros

  • Gorgeous OLED display
  • Powerful speakers
  • Strong battery life
  • Four USB-C ports
  • Physical webcam shutter
  • Included stylus and travel sleeve
Cons

  • Whiny fans
  • Shallow keyboard
  • No built-in stylus storage

$1,400 at Lenovo

Photo by Sam Rutherford / Engadget

Screen size: 14-inch | Touchscreen: No | Processor: 12th-gen Intel Core i5/i7 | Installed memory: Up to 16GB | Storage: Up to 1TB | Weight: 3.75 pounds | Battery life: Up to 5.5 hours

Read our full MSI Stealth 14 Studio review

Regardless of if you’re editing videos or playing games, MSI’s Stealth 14 Studio packs a lot of processing power in a very portable package. The base model comes with a 1080p screen, but if you have the money, you’ll want to consider the optional 2,560 x 1,600 display, which boasts a faster 240Hz refresh rate and wider color gamut (100% of DCI-P3). At just 3.75 pounds, the Stealth 14 Studio weighs half a pound less than similarly sized rivals while still supporting up to an NVIDIA RTX 4070 GPU. And the redesigned model has a stunning magnesium and aluminum chassis that’s also available in a larger 16-inch model.

Pros

  • Striking design
  • Lightweight and portable
  • Solid performance
  • Bright 240Hz display
  • Up-firing stereo speakers
Cons

  • Runs hot
  • No SD card slot
  • Lower-res 720p webcam

$1,900 at Microcenter

Photo by Sam Rutherford / Engadget

Screen size: 18-inch | Touchscreen: No | Processor: 13th-gen Intel Core i9 | Installed memory: Up to 64GB | Storage: Up to 1TB | Weight: 6.75 pounds | Battery life: Up to 3 hours

Read our full Razer Blade 18 review

Razer’s revamped Blade 18 is a monster. It packs full-fat versions of the most powerful components you can put in a laptop including up to an Intel Core i9 13-980HX CPU and an NVIDIA RTX 4090 GPU that runs at up to 175 watts. You also get a massive 18-inch QHD+ display with a 240Hz refresh, tons of ports (including an SD card reader) and gorgeous per key RGB lighting. Holding everything together is Razer’s unibody aluminum chassis, which offers some of the best build quality on any Windows laptop. The one big downside is price: Starting at $2,900 (or closer to $5,000 for a fully loaded model), the Blade 18 is not for people with limited budgets.

Pros

  • 240Hz display
  • Premium aluminum chassis
  • Supports top-notch components
  • Great port selection
Cons

  • Extremely expensive
  • Very short battery life
  • Big
  • No additional display options

$3,107 at Amazon

Engadget

Screen size: 13.8- or 15-inch | Touchscreen: No | Processor: Snapdragon X Plus or Elite | Installed memory: Up to 32GB | Storage: Up to 1TB | Weight: 2.96 pounds | Battery life: Up to 17.5 hours

Read our full Microsoft Surface Laptop 7th Edition review

After more than a decade of tests and trials for Arm-based Windows PCs, Microsoft’s Surface Laptop 7 feels like a breakthrough. It’s fast, it’s quiet and thanks to Qualcomm’s Snapdragon X Elite chip, it delivers well above average performance and battery life. Meanwhile, on the inside, Microsoft’s Prism emulator has almost completely smashed the barrier between Arm and x86, so aside from gaming, almost all of your favorite apps just work. Tack on a bright 120Hz display and excellent build quality and you get something really close to an ideal ultraportable PC.

Pros

  • Slick design
  • Excellent battery life
  • Good performance
  • Bright display
  • Powerful Prism emulator
  • Responsive haptic touchpad
Cons

  • Some apps and games still don’t play nicely with Arm-based chips
  • No OLED display option

$1,300 at Microsoft

The main difference between a Windows laptop and a Chromebook lies in their operating systems. Windows laptops run on Microsoft’s Windows OS, whereas Chromebooks use Google’s Chrome OS.

Aside from using different operating systems, performance is one of the major differences between a Windows laptop and a Chromebook. Windows laptops can be equipped with powerful processors and discrete graphics, making them suitable for demanding tasks like gaming or video editing. Chromebooks, on the other hand, are generally optimized for speed and simplicity, focusing on lighter tasks like word processing and web browsing.

In terms of software, Windows laptops support a range of desktop programs, whereas Chromebooks primarily use web apps or Android apps from the Google Play Store. Because of their differences, Chromebooks tend to be more affordable since they are primarily designed for basic, everyday tasks. Windows laptops can range in price from budget to premium, with the latter suitable for gaming, professionals or creatives.

When it comes to macOS and Windows, they’re basically two different worlds in the realm of computers, each with its own personality. MacOS is sleek, minimal and feels pretty intuitive, especially if you like things that just “work” out of the box. Apple designs macOS to work in tandem with its hardware, so if you have an iOS device like an iPhone or an iPad, the whole ecosystem syncs up seamlessly.

Windows is more like the jack-of-all-trades. It’s known for being super flexible and customizable. Whether you want to tweak how things look or run a wide variety of software, Windows gives you that freedom. It’s also more widely used in business settings, mainly because it’s been around longer and is compatible with tons of different programs and hardware.

September 2024: Added an FAQ section.

July 2024: We updated our top picks to include the Microsoft Surface Laptop 7th Edition.

The best budget wireless earbuds for 2024


While the latest wireless earbuds from Apple, Sony, Bose and other big-name brands may dominate the headlines, you absolutely do not need to spend triple digits to get something good. These days it’s more than possible to find a clean-sounding, richly-featured pair for well under $100, but navigating the bargain bin still brings its share of challenges.

If you want to upgrade without breaking the bank, allow us to help. Whether you’re looking for active noise cancellation, great sound, a gym-friendly design or just something dirt cheap, here are the best budget wireless earbuds we’ve tested. This is a busy market with new models arriving all the time, but we’ll keep this guide as up-to-date as possible as we test out recent releases.

Photo by Jeff Dunn / Engadget

Bluetooth: v5.2 | ANC: Yes | Transparency mode: Yes | Custom EQ: Yes | Charging port: USB-C | Wireless charging: Yes | Water resistance: IPX4 | Multipoint connectivity: Yes (2 devices) | Wear detection: No | Battery life (rated): 10 hrs, 50 hrs w/ case | Fast charging (rated): 10 mins = 4 hrs | Codecs: SBC, AAC, LDAC | Warranty: 18 months

The Anker Soundcore Space A40 is often available for $60 but offers the kind of performance and features you’d see from a pair of earbuds that costs twice as much. Its little round earpieces are light and evenly balanced, so they shouldn’t be a pain for most to wear for hours at a time. The default sound profile is good enough: It’s warm, with a bump in the upper-bass and a dip in the treble that can dull some finer details, but pleasant on the whole. Unlike many cheaper headphones, it doesn’t completely blow out the low-end. As with many modern pairs, you can tweak the sound with custom EQ tools in the Soundcore app. Using these won’t make the Space A40 sound as nice as the best wireless earbuds on the market, but it can give them a touch more deep bass or high-frequency emphasis. The app in general is easy to use, and it saves any changes you make directly to the earphones.

The Space A40’s best feature is its active noise cancellation (ANC), which is outstanding for the money. It won’t totally block out higher-pitched sounds, but it’s plenty effective at muting the rumbles of a train or jet engine. By default, Anker uses an adaptive ANC system that automatically tweaks the intensity based on your surroundings, though you can manually set it to strong, moderate or weak levels, too. That’s great for those with sensitive ears. There’s also a transparency mode, which isn’t nearly as good as what you’d find on a high-end pair like the AirPods Pro but works in a pinch.

Most of the little touches you’d want from a modern set of headphones are here as well. The Space A40 can connect to two devices simultaneously, and you can use one earbud on its own. Battery life is solid at eight-ish hours, while the included charging case can supply another 40 or so hours and supports wireless charging. The IPX4 water resistance rating isn’t anything special but still means the earphones can survive light rain and everyday sweat. The touch control scheme can feel somewhat busy, as it lets you assign up to six different shortcuts to different taps and long presses and effectively forces you to omit a function or two, but it works reliably. We’ve had no real connection issues, either.

The only major shortcomings are the mic quality and the lack of auto-pausing when you remove an earbud. The former doesn’t handle sibilant sounds very well and can lose your voice in particularly noisy areas, so this isn’t the best option for phone calls, but it’s usable.

Pros

  • Excellent ANC for the money
  • Pleasant, warm sound
  • Multi-device connectivity and wireless charging support
  • Comfortable
  • Good battery life
Cons

  • No automatic wear detection
  • Call quality is mediocre
  • Audio performance isn’t as detailed as higher-end options (as expected)

$59 at Amazon

Photo by Jeff Dunn / Engadget

Bluetooth: v5.3 | ANC: Yes | Transparency mode: Yes | Custom EQ: Yes | Charging port: USB-C | Wireless charging: Yes | Water resistance: IPX4 | Multipoint connectivity: Yes (2 devices) | Wear detection: Yes | Battery life (rated): 10 hrs, 50 hrs w/ case | Fast charging (rated): 10 mins = 4 hrs | Codecs: SBC, AAC, LDAC | Warranty: 18 months

The Anker Soundcore Liberty 4 NC is a commendable option if you prefer a larger “stem” design akin to Apple’s AirPods. In many ways, these earphones are just the Space A40 in a different shape. Like our top pick, they deliver an impressive adaptive ANC system, a relatively stable fit, wireless charging, an intuitive app, IPX4-rated water resistance and the ability to connect with two devices at once. Battery life is about the same as well, but we were usually able to get a half-hour or so more out of the Liberty 4 NC.

By default, this pair has an exciting sound with big, thumpy bass and a noticeable spike in the treble. It’s a good example of the “fun” EQ curve we often see from mainstream headphones these days, one that lends a nice sense of clarity to vocals and higher-range instrumentation. It fits especially well with EDM and pop music. That said, it’s intense, so some might find it fatiguing. The Space A40 doesn’t exactly sound neutral, but it comes off as easygoing by comparison, so it should be more agreeable for most. You can still personalize the Liberty 4 NC’s sound profile through a variety of EQ settings in the Soundcore app, but it’s hard to fully rein in the bass even with those.

Beyond that, you can manually adjust the strength of this pair’s ANC on a five-step scale, which is a little more granular than the Space A40’s three-step option. The touch controls are slightly more extensive, as you can triple-tap each earbud to change volume or access other commands. It also supports wear detection, plus its integrated mics are a bit better at resisting wind noise. However, it’s sluggish to auto-pause whenever you remove an earbud, and call quality is still mediocre in general. The included transparency mode is still merely serviceable too. And at $100, it’s right on the edge of our “budget” limit.

Pros

  • Strong ANC for the money
  • Multi-device connectivity and wireless charging support
  • Comfortable
  • Good battery life
Cons

  • Bass-heavy sound is fun but can be fatiguing
  • Bulkier “stem” design is not for everyone
  • Call quality isn’t great

$100 at Verizon

Photo by Jeff Dunn / Engadget

Bluetooth: v5.2 | ANC: No | Transparency mode: No | Custom EQ: Yes | Charging port: USB-C | Wireless charging: Yes | Water resistance: IPX7 | Multipoint connectivity: No | Wear detection: No | Battery life (rated): 7 hrs, 30 hrs w/ case | Fast charging (rated): 10 mins = 2 hrs | Codecs: SBC, AAC, aptX | Warranty: 18 months

If you don’t want to spend more than $50 on a set of true wireless earbuds, consider the Earfun Free 2S. Similar to the Liberty 4 NC, this pair has a big bass response and a smaller bump in the treble. It misses details in the mids and can feel exhausting to listen to over extended periods, but it’s a richer take on this kind of sound signature than most pairs in the price range. You can adjust the sound through EarFun’s app as well, though there’s fewer EQ presets to choose from than with the Space A40.

The earpieces themselves are well-shaped and not oversized; combined with their soft silicone ear tips, they should be comfortable for most to wear over long periods of time. An IPX7 rating means they’re fully waterproof, too. There’s a suite of reliable touch controls and battery life sits at around seven hours. The included case adds another 30 or so hours and supports wireless charging, too. It’s not the smallest case we’ve used, but it’s not so large that it can’t fit in a pocket, either.

That said, you start to run into more “you get what you pay for” situations once you drop into this price range. In addition to not sounding quite as sharp as our pricier picks, the Free 2S lacks active noise cancellation, multi-device connectivity, auto-pausing and a transparency mode. And though their mic quality is decent in most cases, it’s pretty susceptible to wind noise.

Pros

  • Very affordable
  • Comfortable and compact fit
  • IPX7 waterproof rating
  • Lively, customizable sound
Cons

  • No ANC or ambient sound modes
  • No wireless charging, wear detection or multi-device connectivity, either
  • Sound quality is still less balanced than our top picks

$40 at Amazon

Photo by Valentina Palladino / Engadget

Bluetooth: v5.1 | ANC: No | Transparency mode: No | Custom EQ: Yes (presets only) | Charging port: USB-A (integrated) | Wireless charging: No | Water resistance: IP55 | Multipoint connectivity: No | Wear detection: No | Battery life (rated): 8 hrs, 32+ hrs w/ case | Fast charging (rated): 10 mins = 1 hr | Codecs: SBC | Warranty: 2 years

Any of our picks above will be perfectly fine for working out. But if you want a set of cheap earphones specifically for the gym, the JLab Go Air Sport are worth considering. Engadget’s Valentina Palladino recommends this pair in our guide to the best running headphones and, at $30, it is indeed a strong value. It uses an around-the-ear hook design that keeps everything secure while you’re on the move, and the hooks themselves are soft and flexible, so they shouldn’t be a pain to wear regardless of your ear size. The design is IP55 water-resistant, which isn’t the absolute best but is enough to survive sweaty, non-swimming workouts. (Just note that the rating doesn’t apply to the charging case.) Battery life is solid at roughly eight hours, and the touch controls generally work well.

The Go Air Sport doesn’t have a dedicated app but comes with three EQ modes built in. Unfortunately, all of them are somewhat boomy. A bass-heavy sound isn’t the worst thing for pumping yourself up at the gym, but the Space A40 should be better for enjoying music everywhere else. This pair is also light on features: no ANC, transparency mode, wireless charging, auto-pausing or multi-device connectivity. The case has a short USB-A cable hardwired in, which is sort of convenient but demands extra care — if that cord breaks, you’ll need a whole new case. The case could stand to be a bit smaller as well. But for $30, there’s plenty to like about the Go Air Sport as a cheap beater set used strictly for workouts.

Pros

  • Very affordable
  • Secure, gym-friendly design
  • IP55-rated water resistance
  • Solid battery life
Cons

  • Bass-heavy sound isn’t for everyone
  • Lacking feature set
  • Case could be smaller
  • Affixed charging cable isn’t USB-C

$30 at Amazon

Photo by Jeff Dunn / Engadget

Bluetooth: v5.2 | ANC: No | Transparency mode: No | Custom EQ: Yes | Charging port: USB-C | Wireless charging: No | Water resistance: IPX2 | Multipoint connectivity: Yes (2 devices) | Wear detection: Yes | Battery life (rated): 5 hrs, 6 hrs w/ wake word off, 20 hrs w/ case | Fast charging: 15 mins = 2 hrs | Codecs: SBC, AAC, aptX | Warranty: 1 year

All of our picks so far are technically earphones, meaning they extend into your ear canal. For some people, that is inherently uncomfortable. Unfortunately, the market for decent yet affordable “earbuds,” which rest on the concha instead of going all the way in your ear, is spotty. If you can’t bring yourself to pay for a pair of AirPods, though, the Amazon Echo Buds are a worthy compromise at $50.

The plastic earpieces here aren’t exactly premium, but they rest lightly in the ear and feel sturdily put together. They let in and leak noise more easily than in-ear headphones, but if you prefer open earbuds, that’s more of a feature than a bug. If the fit doesn’t feel right, you can shed a little bulk by removing the pre-installed silicone covers. (Like most open earbuds, though, comfort here is dependent on your ear shape.) Mic quality is more than adequate, and the circular touch panels give ample room for using the controls, which are customizable and consistently responsive. Battery life sits around five hours, which is middling but not out of character for budget earbuds. The pocket-friendly case adds about three full charges, but it’s worth noting that Amazon doesn’t include a USB-C charging cable. A poor IPX2 water resistance rating means you should avoid the gym with these, too.

While the Echo Buds sound fine out of the box, I’d use the EQ sliders in the Alexa app to bring down the treble a click or two. By default, the highs are a bit too edgy. That said, this emphasis lends a nice crispness to things like vocals, cymbals and strings, and there’s enough separation to keep complex tracks from sounding totally muddled. The profile here isn’t as full-bodied as the latest AirPods, and no open earbuds deliver true sub-bass, but there’s at least some rumble for hip-hop and EDM.

Unlike many cheap earbuds, the Echo Buds support auto-pausing and multi-device pairing. I often had to manually pause playback on one device before I could switch to the other, but having the feature at all at this price is great. Unsurprisingly, they also come with Alexa baked in, which you can access hands-free. You manage the Echo Buds through the Alexa app, which is much more cluttered than a dedicated audio app but includes extras like a lost device tracker and sidetone control for phone calls. And if you want nothing to do with Alexa, it also lets you turn off the mics and wake-word support.

Pros

  • Actually decent unsealed earbuds that cost less than $50
  • Lightweight
  • Pocket-friendly case
  • Automatic wear detection
  • Multi-device connectivity
  • Hands-free (and optional) Alexa
Cons

  • Open design means you’ll hear external noise all the time
  • Poor water resistance
  • Middling battery life
  • Needs a little tweaking to sound its best
  • Alexa app is a bit obnoxious

$50 at Amazon

Photo by Jeff Dunn / Engadget

Our former runner-up pick, the EarFun Air Pro 3 offers a similar shape, feature set and bass-heavy sound profile as the Soundcore Liberty 4 NC. Its call quality and IPX5-rated water resistance are a touch superior as well. But its battery life is shorter at six to seven hours per charge, and its ANC, while serviceable, is neither as comprehensive nor customizable. Anker’s pair also sounds better, with richer bass and greater clarity in the treble range. The main reason to consider the Air Pro 3 is because it often goes on sale for much less than the Liberty 4 NC, so if you prefer a stem-style design and really need to save cash, it’s worth a look. Be aware that EarFun recently released an updated model called the Air Pro 4, though we haven’t been able to test that $80 pair just yet. 

Pros

  • Impressive feature set for the price
Cons

  • Excited sound profile isn’t for everyone

$76 at Amazon

Photo by Jeff Dunn / Engadget

If you just want a competent pair of wireless earbuds for as little money as possible, take a look at the JLab Go Air Pop. For $25, it has a light design with decent isolation, plus eight to nine hours of battery life, IPX4 water resistance and a full set of touch controls that actually work. As with the Go Air Sport, there’s no companion app but JLab lets you swap between three built-in EQ presets from the buds themselves. It’s still worth upgrading to the EarFun Free 2S if you can afford it, as the Go Air Pop sounds boomier by comparison and isn’t as clear in the treble and upper-mids. But at this price, those shouldn’t be dealbreaking trade-offs.

Pros

  • Dirt cheap
  • Solid battery life
Cons

  • Top picks sound more balanced
  • No app

$20 at Lenovo

The Solo Buds carry a similar overall design to other recent Beats earbuds. The Solo Buds carry a similar overall design to other recent Beats earbuds.

The Beats Solo Buds. (Photo by Billy Steele / Engadget)

Note: This is a selection of noteworthy earbuds we’ve put through their paces, not a comprehensive list of everything we’ve ever tried.

The $80 Beats Solo Buds are comfortable and long-lasting, with an impressive 18 hours of battery life. But they sound a bit flat, and they’re severely lacking in features. There’s no ANC, wear detection or official water-resistance rating, and the included case can’t wirelessly charge the earbuds on its own. You can read our full Beats Solo Buds review for more details.

The EarFun Free Pro 3 are totally solid, but the Space A40 gets you superior ANC, longer battery life and a more comfortable design for a lower price these days.

Along those lines, the EarFun Air 2 are a good alternative to EarFun’s Free 2S if you’re partial an AirPods-style stem design, but they cost $10 more and aren’t significantly better.

The Baseus Bowie MA10 are saddled with a ginormous charging case, a sloppy app and bulky earpieces that we found uncomfortable to wear over time.

The Baseus Eli Sport 1 have a fully open design that wraps around the ear and rests outside of your ear canal entirely. That’s nice for staying alert to the outside world, but it’s less so for getting the most detail out of your music. This is another pair with an oversized case, too.

The OnePlus Buds 3 have an excited sound and a stylish design in the same vein as the Soundcore Liberty 4 NC, and their mic is a bit clearer for phone calls. They fall short of Anker’s pair when it comes to noise cancellation and battery life, however.

The Skullcandy Dime 3 deliver a surprisingly neutral sound profile for their dirt-cheap price, so they’re worth considering over the JLab Go Air Pop if you see them in the $25 range. Unlike that pair, they can also connect to two devices simultaneously. But their overall battery life is shorter, their call quality is poor and their physical controls are both unintuitive and uncomfortable, since they lead you to push the buds deeper into your ear canals.

The Skullcandy Smokin’ Buds are another ultra-budget option with a sick name, brah, but they sound harsher in the treble than the JLab Go Air Pop and offer worse battery life through their charging case. This pair does use tap-based controls, but they can be finicky, and they still aren’t the most straightforward things to operate.

September 2024: We’ve added notes on a handful of other budget wireless earbuds that we’ve tested but fall short of our top picks, which remain unchanged. We’re still evaluating a few other models from the likes of Samsung, JBL, EarFun and Tribit for our next update.

June 2024: We’ve checked this guide to ensure that all of our picks are still in stock. Accordingly, we’ve removed the Nothing Ear Stick as an honorable mention, as it no longer appears to be available — though it remains a decent option if you do see it and want an unsealed alternative to the Amazon Echo Buds. We’re also still in the process of testing several other sub-$100 wireless earbuds for an update that we hope to complete in the coming weeks.

The best smart speakers for 2024


There’s never been a better time to get a smart speaker, especially if you’re a music fan. When voice assistants first started infiltrating these devices, hands-free controls were really the star of the show. Even now, one of the most common ways that people interact with Siri, Alexa and Google Assistant is through a smart home speaker. But now you have dozens of options to choose from, and most of them sound much better than the first smart home products did. Sonos recently entered the game with its own voice assistant on its stellar-sounding speakers, and even lower-end models like the Echo Dot and Nest Mini have better audio quality than their first iterations did. If you’re struggling to pick the best smart speaker for your needs, we at Engadget can help. We’ve outlined our top picks below, plus all of the things you should consider before buying a smart speaker today.

The first thing most people should do is decide what voice assistant they want to use. Google Assistant and Amazon’s Alexa are both well-supported options that are continually evolving, with new features added at a steady clip. A few years ago, Alexa worked with more smart home products, but at this point, basically any smart device worth buying works with both.

It’s mostly a matter of personal preference. If you’re already entrenched in the Google ecosystem and own an Android phone, it makes sense to stick with that. And if you have multiple Google-based smart devices in your home, you can use Google Home to easily control and navigate your devices. But while Alexa isn’t quite as good at answering general knowledge questions, it syncs just fine with things like calendars from your Google account. And it works with perhaps the widest variety of smart home products as well. If you’ve never used Alexa or Google Assistant, you can download their apps on your iOS or Android phone and spend some time testing them out before buying a speaker.

There are downsides to having a smart home device that’s always listening for a wake word, as giving more personal information to Amazon, Apple and Google can be a questionable decision. That said, all these companies have made it easier to manage how your data is used — you can opt out of humans reviewing some of your voice queries, and it’s also less complicated to manage and erase your history with various digital assistants, too.

If you buy a Sonos device with a microphone, you can also use the company’s own voice assistant, voiced by Giancarlo Esposito. It’s focused purely on music control, so you won’t use it to do things like send messages or ask the weather forecast. But as a music assistant, Sonos Voice Control is generally quite fast and reliable.

As for Apple, you won’t be surprised to learn the HomePod and HomePod mini are the only Siri-compatible speakers on the market. It’s rumored that Apple will potentially release a new range of smart displays, like its HomePod with a touchscreen, sometime soon. Apple’s Siri has a reputation for not being as smart as Alexa or Google Assistant, but it’s totally capable of handling common voice queries like answering questions, controlling smart home products, sending messages, making calls and streaming music via AirPlay. Technically, Siri and Apple’s HomeKit technology doesn’t work with as many smart home devices as the competition, but it’s not hard to find compatible gear. And Apple has most definitely improved Siri’s functionality over the last couple years, with handy features like and Intercom tool and routines that take advantage of the built-in temperature sensor in the HomePod and HomePod Mini.

Amazon

Connectivity: Bluetooth, Wi-Fi | Assistant support: Amazon Alexa | Max wattage: 20W | Battery life: N/A

Most people’s entry point into the smart speaker world will not be an expensive device. Amazon’s fourth-generation Echo Dot and Google’s Home speaker, the Nest Mini, are the most obvious places to start for two important reasons. One, they’re cheap: Both the Nest Mini and Echo Dost cost $50. Two, they’re capable. Despite the low price, these speakers can do virtually the same things as larger and more expensive devices, offering essential functionality

The Google Nest Mini was released in late 2019, but Amazon just refreshed the Echo Dot recently. The Echo Dot is the best small speaker with a smart assistant for most people and one of the most compact Alexa-enabled wireless speakers, period. Amazon keeps improving the audio performance across its Echo device line, and the Echo Dot is no exception. It produces much louder and clearer audio than I’d expect from a $50 speaker. The Nest Mini doesn’t sound bad, and it’s perfectly fine for listening in the bedroom while getting ready for the day, but the Echo Dot is a better all-purpose music listening device.

From a design perspective, Amazon broke the mold with the latest Echo Dot. Instead of a small puck like the Nest Mini, the new Dot is shaped like a little globe. It’s much bigger than the Nest Mini, but that size gives it room for higher-end audio components. Although mostly hands free, relying on Alexa to answer questions, set timers, work as an alarm clock and more, the Dot keeps the physical volume buttons and mute switch on top, along with a button to activate Alexa’s voice control. While the Dot doesn’t look as sleek as the Nest Mini, having physical buttons makes it easier to adjust volume and mute the mic. I do wish the Dot had a way to physically pause music; on the Nest Mini, if you tap the middle of the device, the music stops.

Overall, the Dot is the best budget choice for most people, but I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend the Nest Mini as another affordable smart speaker option. I generally prefer using Google Assistant over Alexa, and anyone who feels the same should go ahead and get the Nest Mini. The Dot does sound notably better, so if you plan to listen to audio on a regular basis, that’s probably the way to go. But if you only plan to use it for a quick song or podcast when you’re getting ready in the morning, just pick your favorite assistant and go from there.

Pros

  • Compact design
  • Strong sound for its size
  • Physical buttons to mute mic and adjust volume
Cons

  • Not as sleek as the Nest Mini

$30 at Kohl’s

Amazon

Connectivity: Bluetooth, Wi-Fi | Assistant support: Amazon Alexa | Max wattage: 30W | Battery life: N/A

Amazon, Apple and Google all have $100 smart speakers: the fourth-generation Echo, the HomePod mini and the Nest Audio, respectively. All three companies claim superior audio quality, so for lots of people these speakers will be the sweet spot between small speakers like the Echo Dot and Nest Mini and bigger, more expensive models like the Sonos Era 100.

Once again, Amazon punches above its weight. Like the Dot, the latest Echo is totally redesigned and the new internals were made with music in mind. It combines a three-inch woofer with two 0.8-inch tweeters — a more advanced setup than either the Nest Audio or HomePod mini. (The Google Nest Audio uses a three-inch woofer but only a single 0.75-inch tweeter, while the Apple HomePod mini makes do with a single “full range” driver and two passive radiators.)

In practice, this means the Echo is noticeably louder than either the Nest Audio or HomePod mini and much better suited to play room-filling sound than the competition. It also delivers an impressive bass thump and powerful mid-range frequencies. In fact, my main complaint with the speaker is that highs aren’t quite crisp enough. Compare the Echo to an Era 100 and the 100 sounds much more lively, while the Echo comes off a bit muddy. Then again, the 100 costs more than twice as much as the Echo.

While the Echo speaker may beat the Nest Audio and HomePod mini on volume and bass, Google and Apple’s speakers are not bad options. The HomePod mini is the quietest of the three speakers, but it still sounds balanced across the entire audio spectrum. The bass isn’t too assertive, but there’s more presence than I would have expected given its tiny size (it’s by far the smallest of these three speakers).

And it has a few nice perks if you’re using an iPhone 11 or newer. Thanks to the U1 “ultra-wideband” chip in recent iPhones, the HomePod mini can tell when there’s a phone near it, which makes handing off music from your phone to the speaker (or vice versa) quite simple. Playback controls for the HomePod mini will automatically pop up as well, and your phone’s lock screen will display music suggestions if the speaker isn’t currently playing. Setup is also dead-simple — just bring an iPhone or iPad near the speaker and it’ll automatically start the process.

Google’s Nest Audio is also quite pleasant to listen to. It’s a little louder than the HomePod mini, and has stronger bass, to boot. It doesn’t have the same overall power and presence that the Echo does, but for $100 it’s a well-balanced speaker that should serve most people’s needs.

All three of these speakers support stereo pairing as well, if you want more volume or crave a more immersive experience. For $200, two Echoes will fill a large room with high-quality sound and enough bass to power a party. A pair of HomePod mini or Nest Audio speakers aren’t quite as powerful, but it makes for a great upgrade if you’re a more avid listener. A pair of Nest Audio or HomePod mini speakers sounded great on my desk during the workday. I don’t need overwhelming volume but can appreciate the stereo separation. And two of those speakers together can easily power a larger living space, although the Echo is the better choice if volume is a priority.

Here too, I think that picking the smart assistant that works best in your house and with your other gadgets is probably the most important factor — but given Alexa’s ubiquity and the new Echo’s superior sound quality, it’s the best smart speaker at this price point.

Pros

  • Louder than competitors, with punchy bass
  • Two paired speakers support stereo sound

$100 at Amazon

Photo by Nathan Ingraham / Engadget

Connectivity: Bluetooth, Wi-Fi | Assistant support: Amazon Alexa, Sonos Voice Control | Max wattage: 10W | Battery life: N/A

If you have more than a passing interest in music, the Echo Dot and Nest Mini aren’t really going to cut it. Spending more money to upgrade to a speaker designed with audio quality in mind is one of the best decisions I’ve made. For years, I didn’t have a proper home music solution, but in the end the modest investment has made my life much more pleasant.

For years, the Sonos One has been a favorite of mine, combining a reasonable price with good sound quality and a plethora of useful features like easy multi-room audio, stereo pairing and compatibility with tons of services. This year, Sonos replaced the One with the Era 100, a $250 speaker that is an improvement in almost every way you can think of. Most importantly, it uses a new speaker array that includes two tweeters instead of just one as well as a woofer that’s 25 percent bigger. The end result is that the Era 100 handily bests the One in sound quality, with impressive bass, surprisingly huge volume and increased high-end clarity thanks to the additional tweeter.

There are a lot of other improvements beyond just sound quality. The Era 100 uses its built-in microphones for much easier Trueplay tuning, which optimizes the speaker’s output based on where you place it. Previously, you had to use an iPhone and walk around the room waving the phone to optimize your Sonos speaker, but now the process is much simpler. The Era 100 also includes line-in via a USB-C port and also has Bluetooth for when you just want to quickly connect a device to the speaker. It’s a bummer that you need to buy an adapter to hook up a turntable or other audio equipment to the Era 100, but since the One didn’t support line-in at all, I’m still glad it’s an option. You can also pair two Era 100s with a Sonos soundbar to get a solid home theater setup with surround sound.

There are a handful of other small but solid improvements, like redesigned controls on the top that make it easier to skip tracks and a mic mute switch that cuts the power to the mic for extra security. Like the One, it’s easy to set up Alexa or the Sonos voice assistant here, but the Era 100 doesn’t support the Google Assistant – so if you were previously using a Sonos speaker and relied on Google, you’re unfortunately out of luck here. Other than that one change, though, the Era 100 is an excellent all-around performer. It’s a great speaker on its own and is also a great starting point if you want to build a multi-room audio setup.

The Amazon Echo Studio remains an excellent-sounding speaker as well, and at $199 it’s a good bit cheaper than the Era 100 as well. If you want to save some cash or already have a bunch of other Echo devices in your smart home ecosystem, it makes sense as a speaker for higher-quality music playback. But given that it’ll be four years old this fall, I think it makes sense to opt for a newer device that’ll get longer support and updates.

Pros

  • Excellent sound quality
  • Gets loud
  • Built-in mics for Trueplay tuning and voice control
  • Line-in USB-C port
  • Bluetooth support
Cons

  • Doesn’t support Google Assistant

$249 at Sonos

Sonos

Connectivity: Bluetooth, Wi-Fi | Assistant support: Amazon Alexa, Sonos Voice Control | Max wattage: Not specified | Battery life: N/A

As nice as the Era 100 and Echo Studio are, there’s only so much you can get out of them. If you crave more bass, clarity and stereo separation, the $550 Sonos Five is the best sounding smart speaker on this list. It has many of the conveniences in the Era 100 and sounds significantly better than any other Sonos speaker. It also sounds much better than the Echo Studio and anything Google is currently selling.

That said, the Five stretches our definition of a smart speaker here because it doesn’t have a built-in voice assistant. But it’s so good at music playback that it’s worth recommending you pick one up along with an Echo Dot or Nest Mini. Both of those speakers work with Sonos, so you can use voice commands to control the Five just as you would a dedicated Alexa or Google Assistant device. Sonos also refreshed the speaker two years ago with a new wireless radio as well as more memory and a faster processor. This means it should stay current and work with future Sonos software updates for years to come.

Since we’re talking “best” here, I’m going to go ahead and recommend that true music junkies splash out on two Five speakers and pair them in stereo. Put simply, it’s the most enjoyable experience I’ve had listening to music in years; I found myself picking up new details while listening to albums I’ve heard over and over again. It’s a wonderful experience and worth saving for if you’re a music lover. I didn’t know what I was missing until I tried the Five.

The Sonos Era 300, also recently released, is a $450 speaker that supports Dolby Atmos spatial audio from Apple Music and Amazon Music Unlimited. I’ve found that the quality of spatial audio mixes can be very hit or miss, but the good news is that the Era 300 sounds outstanding whether it’s playing back Atmos content or just standard tracks. It’s not quite as good as the Sonos Five, but it does have built-in microphones for voice assistants and easy Trueplay tuning as well as Bluetooth and the redesigned controls on the Era 100. Again, the main downside is that Google Assistant isn’t supported here.

Finally, if you’re an Apple Music user or have a lot of Apple hardware in your home, the second-generation HomePod is definitely worth considering. At $300, it’s a lot cheaper than these Sonos speakers but supports spatial audio like the Era 300. The Era 300 and Sonos Five are better speakers overall (and certainly much louder), but there’s a lot to like about the HomePod’s audio quality at its price point. It’s a clear, crisp vocal-forward speaker, and its design and software processing does a great job of making music sound like it’s all around you, even if you’re not playing back Dolby Atmos tracks.

Pros

  • Stellar audio quality
  • Two paired speakers support stereo sound
Cons

  • No Bluetooth support
  • No built-in voice assistant

$549 at Sonos

Photo by Nathan Ingraham / Engadget

Connectivity: Bluetooth, Wi-Fi | Assistant support: Amazon Alexa, Sonos Voice Control | Max wattage: 10W | Battery life: 10 hours

While many people will be happy with a few speakers strategically placed throughout their home, you might want something that works outside as well as inside. Fortunately, you can find speakers that pair voice controls and strong music playback performance with portable, weatherproof form factors. For my money, it’s hard to beat the Sonos Roam for sheer versatility, not to mention audio quality.

When used inside the home, the Roam works like any other Sonos speaker. It fits in with an existing multi-room Sonos setup, or you can get a pair for stereo playback. Like most other Sonos speakers, it works with the Sonos Voice Assistant or Amazon Alexa, and it supports essentially every major music service available. It sounds very good given its tiny size; it’s quieter and not quite as clear as the Sonos One or the Era 100, but it still packs a surprising bass thump and distinct highs.

Since it was designed with on-the-go usage in mind, the Roam has a battery and Bluetooth so you can take it anywhere and use it far away from your Wi-Fi network. And its diminutive size makes it easy to take it everywhere, both around the house and out and about. It’s also the first Sonos speaker that is fully waterproof, as well as dust- and drop-resistant, so you shouldn’t worry about taking it to the pool or beach.

The Roam gets about 10 hours of battery life, whether you’re on Wi-FI or Bluetooth. There are other portable speakers that last longer, so if you’re really going to push the battery you might be better served by another option.

Another wireless portable speaker option is the $449 Sonos Move 2. It’s much larger and louder than the Roam, which is unsurprising given how much more expensive it is. It’s a nice upgrade over the previous Move, with two tweeters for more detailed sound, a battery that lasts more than a day and redesigned touch controls up top. It also has a line-in jack via USB-C, so you can hook up a turntable when you’re using it inside. If you’re willing to sacrifice portability for power and better sound quality (and can afford it), the Move 2 will be more satisfying than the Roam.

A better choice than the Move, unless you already have other Sonos products, is the $399 Bose Portable Smart speaker. It supports Alexa and Google Assistant commands, and since it can connect to WiFi, you can ask your preferred assistant to play music from Spotify, Amazon Music and other services. On top of that, it produces well-rounded sound, sports an IPX4 design with a convenient carry handle and will last up to 12 hours on a single charge.

Bose also has a good alternative to the Roam. The $149 SoundLink Flex supports Siri and Google Assistant commands, plus it has an IP67 design that’s roughly the size of a small clutch bag. It pumps out bright, dynamic sound and can pair with other speakers for stereo sound, too – it’s excellent and slightly cheaper than the Roam.

While this guide is all about smart speakers, we’d be remiss if we didn’t mention all of the solid portable speakers out there that either have limited smart features or none at all. We have an entire guide to the best portable Bluetooth speakers, so if you’re purely concerned with portability and less about having an ecosystem of connected speakers, there are lots of options worth investigating.

Pros

  • Works with existing Sonos setups
  • Good sound quality with strong bass
  • Wi-Fi and Bluetooth connectivity
Cons

  • Just average battery life
  • Doesn’t get as loud as other portable speakers

$179 at Sonos

The best gaming mouse in 2024


While no gaming mouse will magically stop you from getting wrecked in Counter-Strike or Call of Duty, the right model can give you a greater feeling of control and make your downtime altogether more comfortable. Which one is “best” for you ultimately comes down to preference: Shape is king, as they say, and everyone’s hands are different. Nevertheless, we’ve tested dozens of well-regarded gaming mice over the past several months and picked out a few options that glided above the rest. After countless hours in CS2, Overwatch 2, Halo Infinite, Final Fantasy XIV and more PC games, these are our picks for the best gaming mice you can buy, plus some general tips to keep in mind during your search.

Photo by Jeff Dunn / Engadget

If money is no object, the best gaming mouse with a symmetrical design that we’ve tested is the Razer Viper V3 Pro. It costs a hefty $160, but it’ll give you little to complain about if you play a ton of competitive PC games and can stomach the price.

With its lightly grooved sides, noticeable but not aggressive hump and gentle flare-outs toward the back, the Viper V3 Pro’s shape should be comfortable for a wide range of hand sizes and grip types. It’s a bit on the wider side, and it probably works best with a claw or fingertip grip, but it’s not so short or flat that it can’t accommodate palm grippers. The main mouse buttons are contoured in a way that gives your fingers a natural resting place, and there are little ledges on either side to subtly nudge them to the right spot when you’re scrambling in-game. Put another way, this is one of the safer shapes we’ve tested.

The Viper’s build quality is excellent. It’s impressively light at 54 grams, which makes it a breeze to flick around in fast-paced games, yet its matte plastic frame isn’t covered in dust-inviting holes like many other options around the same weight. We’ve seen zero hints of creaking, flexing or rattling after months of testing. The finish picks up some finger smudges but is grippy and delightfully soft to the touch. The main click buttons use durable optical switches but aren’t especially loud. Though they aren’t quite as full or crisp as the absolute best mechanical switches, they’re still snappy to press, neither too firm nor too light. The two programmable side buttons are well-sized and easy to reach. The scroll wheel, meanwhile, is tight and quiet, with clearly defined steps and a textured finish.

Performance, as is the case with many high-end gaming mice these days, is effectively flawless. Razer’s Focus Pro 35K Optical Sensor Gen-2 — say that five times fast — is basically overkill from a technological perspective but makes the mouse exceptionally accurate and consistent all the same. It’s aided by amply-sized, smooth-gliding PTFE feet and a rock-solid connection to an included “HyperPolling” dongle. The latter lets the mouse reach a maximum polling rate of 8,000Hz, but as noted below, few people will actually noticed any benefit from jumping that high. Mostly, it’ll just zap battery life: Razer says the Viper V3 Pro can get up to 95 hours at 1,000Hz, which is fine for this market and roughly consistent with our experience, but that drops to just 17 hours at 8,000Hz.

If the price didn’t make it obvious, the Viper V3 Pro is for gaming enthusiasts. As such, it gives up some of the perks you’d find on more mainstream mice: There’s no RGB lighting or Bluetooth, while the power button/DPI switcher is located on the bottom of the device to make it harder to hit by accident. Since the device uses a special dongle instead of a traditional receiver, it still requires you run a separate USB-C cable from your PC. You can connect over that cable when the battery is low, thankfully, but it’s relatively thick. And while Razer’s Synapse software makes it simple enough to adjust settings, it’s something of a resource hog. It’s also Windows-only. These are all nitpicks, though. The Viper V3 Pro is outstanding, and it should feel right at home in the hands of committed FPS players.

Pros

  • Exceptional performance
  • Superb build quality
  • Comfortable for most grip types and hand sizes
Cons

  • Expensive
  • Bit of a fingerprint magnet
  • Thick charging cable

$155 at Amazon

Photo by Jeff Dunn / Engadget

If you want a premium gaming mouse with a more ergonomic shape, get the Razer DeathAdder V3 Pro. It packs most of the same strengths as the Viper V3 Pro but has a taller, slightly wider and more dramatically flared design that’s tailored to right-handed users. Most people with medium to large hands should find it to be a natural fit with a palm or claw grip, though it’ll probably be a touch too fat for smaller-handed folks and fingertip grippers. This kind of shape isn’t as easy to whip around as the Viper, but its high, sideways-sloping hump should provide a more relaxing place to rest your hand over the course of the day.

Razer sells two variants of the DeathAdder V3 Pro: one with a similar soft-touch finish as the Viper V3 Pro, and one with a more textured matte plastic coating. We tested the latter; it’s not as grippy or smooth to the touch, but it’s still good, and it’s much less of a fingerprint magnet.Also, the side buttons are bigger, closer together and a smidge less tight, but they’re still difficult to hit by accident. The design is heavier at 63 grams, too, but still seriously lightweight. The PTFE feet are smaller but still glide reliably. And while the sensor is technically a generation older, performance is effectively flawless.

Otherwise, you’re looking at a similar feature set. The optical main buttons are satisfying and consistent but not overly sensitive. The lightly notched scroll wheel is soft, quiet and resistant enough, if not firm. Battery life is rated at a decent 90 hours, and you can connect a lighter and more flexible USB-C cable in a pinch. Both versions of the mouse also support polling rates up to 8,000Hz, though only the SKU with the “smooth-touch” texture comes with a dongle that enables those higher rates in the box. The textured “classic base” model comes with a smaller USB receiver that “only” goes up to 1,000Hz, but since it’s often available for less at third-party retailers, it’s probably a better value. In general, the biggest knock against the DeathAdder V3 Pro is that it’s expensive, with the 8,000Hz model priced at $160.

The newer DeathAdder V3 HyperSpeed, which costs $99, is a “1B” pick here. Although it’s positioned below the Pro in Razer’s lineup, it’s more of a “DeathAdder V3 Pro Mini” than a clear downgrade. It doesn’t give up the rechargeable battery, cutout-free shell, optical switches and soft (if smudge-heavy) coating of its bigger sibling, and while its sensor is technically worse, it still performs wonderfully. Its battery life rating is actually 10 hours higher at 1,000Hz, plus it has a built-in storage compartment for its USB receiver. The major difference is that it’s lighter (55g) and more compact, with a lower-profile scroll wheel and a marginally shorter hump. If your hands are on the smaller side, it’s worth grabbing instead.

Pros

  • Top-shelf performance
  • Lightweight
  • Comfortable for those with medium to large hands
Cons

  • Expensive
  • Naggy software
  • Not ideal for smaller hands

$118 at Walmart

Photo by Jeff Dunn / Endgadget

If you don’t mind connecting over a cable, our favorite wired gaming mouse with a symmetrical design is the Endgame Gear OP1 8K. It weighs just 50 grams and has a simple design with flat sides and a reasonably-sized hump sloping down the back. It’s a bit smaller and more narrow than most mice we’ve tested, so it’ll be comfiest with a claw or fingertip grip, though a palm grip can also work in smaller hands. The whole thing is incredibly sturdy, with no flex or rattle, while the smooth matte plastic coating gives a fair bit of grip. The built-in cable is light, flexible and cleverly titled upwards at the base of the mouse, all of which helps reduce any dragging sensation as you throw your hand around.

The OP1 8K uses mechanical switches, but the mouse is designed in a way that makes them (relatively) easy to swap out in a worst-case scenario. In general, the device’s openness to customization is commendable — there are readily exposed screws on the bottom and a screwdriver, optional side grips and larger PTFE feet in the box.

By default, the main clicks are on the stiffer side but fast to actuate and noticeably crisp. You can actually set these switches to use a “speed mode” that reduces click latency even further, but either way the buttons are easy to spam. The right mouse button on our unit does sound a little sharper than the left, but the difference isn’t severe and you can pop in quieter switches on the cheap if you want a different noise profile. The notched scroll wheel and two side buttons are well-tensioned, too. The latter feel somewhat hollow, but they’re hard to hit by accident.

Sensor performance is predictably excellent; we saw no accuracy or motion delay issues across a range of games. With its light weight, fast clicks and smooth stock skates, everything about it feels tailor-made for snapping around in esports-style games like Counter-Strike 2 that prioritize quick reactions. The mouse also supports polling rates up to 8,000Hz — that’s still far from essential, but it’s at least easier to turn on when there’s no battery drain to worry about. We also like Endgame Gear’s configuration software, which looks like something out of the Windows 95 era but is simple to grok and takes up next to no resources.

At $75, the OP1 8K certainly isn’t the cheapest wired mouse, but it’s still a good way less than wireless high-performance models. The most pressing issue may be that it can fall out of stock from time to time, as Endgame Gear is a relatively small company out of Germany.

Pros

  • Fast to click and flick
  • Sturdy, ultralight design
  • Light and flexible cable
  • Hardware is customizable
Cons

  • A bit small for large hands
  • Side buttons feel somewhat hollow
  • Occasional stock issues

$75 at Endgame Gear

Photo by Jeff Dunn / Engadget

It’s a few years old, but the Razer Basilisk V3 remains our favorite wired gaming mouse with an ergonomic design. This one is more aggressively contoured than “ergo” mice like the DeathAdder V3 Pro, with a large rubberized thumb rest, long main buttons and a rounded, moderately-sized hump running down its middle. It’s fantastically comfy for palm grippers with medium- to large-sized hands, but it’ll also play well with claw grips. Those who prefer a fingertip grip or just have smaller hands will likely find it too chunky, however.

The design as a whole feels robust; there’s some minor flexing on the bottom-right side when you press down hard, but you’d have to go out of your way to notice it. The matte plastic finish is pleasingly textured and sufficiently grippy. The cable is plenty flexible, while the PTFE feet glide smoothly. We also dig the fun-but-not-garish RGB lighting around the mouse’s underside and scroll wheel. There are 11 customizable buttons in total, including two easy-to-reach side buttons and a dedicated “sensitivity clutch” that lets you momentarily drop to a lower DPI for moments where you may need to aim more precisely. The latter will be particularly tough for the smaller-handed to reach comfortably, though.

The Basilisk V3 uses older optical switches than our other Razer top picks, but we haven’t had any double-clicking issues after well over a year of testing. While main clicks aren’t nearly as fast as those on the Endgame Gear OP1 8K, they strike an agreeable balance between firmness and speed. They aren’t all that loud, either. Similar to the Viper V3 Pro, the buttons are grooved in a way that naturally invites your index and middle fingers.

The scroll wheel might be the weakest element: It has clearly defined steps and an easily identifiable texture, but it’s fairly loud and a bit wobbly. That said, it can tilt side-to-side — which helps explain the wobbliness — and there’s a built-in toggle that lets you swap between a normal ratcheted scroll and a free-spin mode. That can be handy outside of games — say, when you need to scroll through a giant document or Excel sheet.

Razer’s Synapse software is still naggy with updates and Windows-only, but it makes customizing DPI levels, macros and RGB effects simple enough. You can save up to five different profiles to the mouse itself, though your lighting customizations won’t carry over.

We haven’t had any major issues with sensor accuracy, either, but at roughly 100 grams, the Basilisk V3 is obviously heftier than the ultralight mice we highlight above. While you absolutely can go off in Counter-Strike or Valorant with it, the mouse’s weight and wide frame mean it’s not expressly designed for games like those. It also can’t go above a 1,000Hz polling rate. In many ways, this is the exact opposite of the OP1 8K, a device that feels designed from the ground up for competitive fare. Instead, the Basilisk V3 makes sense for righties who want a comfy and reliable mouse they can turn to for more casual gaming across genres. Razer sells it for $70, but since it’s usually available for less than $50 at third-party retailers these days, you can consider it our favorite “value” model as well. 

Pros

  • Super comfortable for medium to large hands
  • Well-built, with flexible cable
  • Versatile scroll wheel
  • Good value
Cons

  • Too heavy to be ideal for FPS games
  • Too bulky to be ideal for small hands
  • Scroll wheel is noisy
  • Naggy software

$44 at Walmart

Photo by Jeff Dunn / Engadget

If you want a mouse specifically designed for MMO and MOBA games, get the Corsair Scimitar RGB Elite. It does the most important thing any MMO mouse can do, which is let you access several in-game actions with minimal effort. That’s thanks to its 12 programmable side buttons, all of which deliver a comfortable, firm-but-not-stiff sensation when pressed. Two of the panel’s four button rows are textured, which makes them easier to distinguish without having to look down. Uniquely, you can physically reposition this side panel with an Allen key included in the box, so if you find the buttons difficult to reach by default, you can address that. Either way, having a host of buttons right under your thumb makes it much easier to play MMOs like Final Fantasy XIV or even single-player RPGs like Baldur’s Gate 3, which ask you to navigate multiple “hotbars” of commands at any given time.

Like most MMO mice, the Scimitar RGB Elite is on the larger and heavier (108g) side, but it’s not the bulkiest model we’ve seen. Its shape should be accommodating to palm and claw grips, and most hand sizes. The middle has a rounded, not-overly-aggressive hump, while the bottom is more gently sloped than rivals like Razer’s Naga lineup. The overall construction feels well-built, with a smooth matte finish, a grippy pinky rest and decent PTFE feet. Internally, its optical sensor (the Pixart PMW 3391) isn’t exactly advanced these days, but it’s more than consistent enough for MMOs and MOBAs, which don’t rely on precise, quick-twitch movements. It has no significant issues with latency, either.

However, there are a few downsides. The braided cable feels durable but somewhat stiff. The scroll wheel is grippy and accurate enough, but it’s a touch too recessed between the main buttons, and it could be firmer. Those main buttons never feel mushy, but they use mechanical switches, so they carry more of a long-term durability risk than optical alternatives. (Corsair rates them at 50 million clicks.) And Corsair’s iCue software is, frankly, the worst: You can use it to customize key bindings, assign macros, adjust the (mild) RGB lighting and save profiles to the mouse, but figuring out how is wildly unintuitive.

Nevertheless, the MMO gaming mouse market doesn’t really have one killer option these days. At a price that usually hovers in the $60 to $75 range, the Scimitar RGB Elite offers better value than most. If you hate cables, Corsair sells a wireless version of the device too.

Pros

  • Cleverly textured side buttons make MMOs easier to navigate
  • Generally comfortable and well-built
  • Decent value relative to MMO mouse market
Cons

  • Stiff cable
  • Scroll wheel is too recessed
  • Annoying software

$60 at Amazon

Lamzu

While our top wireless picks are great, we realize that they aren’t cheap. If you want a performance-focused model with a symmetrical shape that isn’t as pricey, consider the Lamzu Atlantis OG V2 4K. Clunky name aside, it tracks accurately and feels well-built. Its mechanical clicks are crisp and full, while its scroll wheel is quiet and sufficiently tight. The design is lightweight (57g) and soft in the hand, though it’s another one that can pick up smudges fairly easily. It has a wider and lower-profile shape than the Viper V3 Pro, particularly toward the front, with a centered hump that isn’t quite as aggressive. It’ll feel at home with a claw grip for any hand size, but fingertip grippers should find it comfortable too. (Just stick with the Viper if you use a palm grip.) Beyond that, Lamzu’s companion software is ugly but functional, and the included charging cable is suitably flexible.

The main knock against the Atlantis is the set of cutouts strewn about its baseplate, which reduce the weight but leave the mouse’s interior open to dust and debris. It’s better to have these holes on the bottom than the top if they must be there, but the Viper avoids this risk entirely. That said, the Atlantis costs $60 less, so it’s a decent value for a premium mouse.

Pros

  • Satisfying clicks and quiet scroll wheel
  • Comfy for claw or fingertip grips
  • Decent value
Cons

  • Holes in baseplate leave interior open to dust and debris
  • Not ideal for palm grips
  • Ugly software

$102 at Amazon

Pulsar Gaming Gears

The Pulsar Xlite V3, meanwhile, is an excellent alternative to the DeathAdder V3 Pro if you want a right-handed design. It has a similar contoured shape, so it’s great for palm and claw grips, but it’s a pinch lighter. Notably, Pulsar sells mini, medium and large variants, so you can choose a size that fits your hands best. Each have rigid outer shells and snappy optical buttons, though the smooth plastic coating isn’t as grippy as either of the DeathAdder’s finishes and the side buttons aren’t as crisp.

Like the Atlantis, the Xlite V3 also has cutouts across the bottom, making it more susceptible to gunk. Still, this is a light, comfortable and highly responsive ergo mouse. For a typical street price of $70, it’s a strong buy.

Pros

  • Solid value
  • Well-suited for palm and claw grips
  • Available in different sizes
Cons

  • Holes in baseplate leave interior open to dust and debris
  • Coating could be grippier

$70 at Amazon

The new Logitech G Pro X Superlight 2 wireless gaming mouse.The new Logitech G Pro X Superlight 2 wireless gaming mouse.

The Logitech G Pro X Superlight 2. (Photo by Jeff Dunn / Engadget)

Note: The following is a selection of especially noteworthy mice we’ve tested, not a comprehensive list of every single model we’ve put through its paces.

The Logitech G Pro X Superlight 2 is a close rival to the Razer Viper V3 Pro for those who want a no-frills, high-end wireless gaming mouse. It has a similar “potato”-style shape, its tracking is similarly tremendous and its optical-mechanical switches have a distinct feel. Unlike the first Superlight, it also charges over USB-C. But the Viper’s main clicks are crisper and more pleasant-sounding, its side buttons aren’t as mushy and its scroll wheel is both firmer and grippier. It’s also slightly lighter.

Much like the DeathAdder V3 HyperSpeed, Razer’s Viper V3 HyperSpeed is a lower-cost variant of the top-end Viper V3 Pro. (Confusing, we know.) At $70, it’s a solid value. Its symmetrical shape and soft-touch finish are virtually identical to the more premium model, and though it technically has a worse sensor, the drop-off is hardly noticeable. The main trade-off is that it’s heavier (about 82g), as it requires a AA battery for power. That doesn’t make it outright hefty, but you can feel the difference in twitchier games. It uses older mechanical switches and smaller PTFE feet, too, plus it lacks a port for connecting a cable. So it’s not as close to its big sibling as the mid-tier DeathAdder. Some may prefer that its DPI button is located on the top of the mouse, though, and its simpler on-off switch is nice.

The Razer Basilisk V3 X HyperSpeed is a more affordable wireless version of the Basilisk V3 with the same comfortable shape and layout, plus a quieter scroll wheel. Because it requires a AA battery for power, though, it weighs around 115g. That’s not great for fast-paced games. The scroll wheel can’t tilt left or right, either, nor can it switch between a ratcheted and free-spin mode. It also uses less durable mechanical switches and only supports one onboard profile. All that said, it’s a decent value at $70.

Some gaming mice we tested for our latest update. Left to right: the Logitech G309 Lightspeed, the Razer Viper V3 HyperSpeed and the Pulsar X2 V2.Some gaming mice we tested for our latest update. Left to right: the Logitech G309 Lightspeed, the Razer Viper V3 HyperSpeed and the Pulsar X2 V2.

Left to right: the Logitech G309 Lightspeed, the Razer Viper V3 HyperSpeed and the Pulsar X2 V2. (Photo by Jeff Dunn / Engadget)

The Pulsar X2 V2 is a good alternative to the Lamzu Atlantis OG V2 4K if you want a high-performing symmetrical mouse for less than the Viper V3 Pro. It has a broadly similar shape as Lazmu’s mouse but is marginally lighter. Its plastic shell is nice and sturdy, but we find its flatter sides and hump make it a little less inviting to palm and claw grips. It does use optical switches, but its main clicks aren’t as quiet or full-feeling as those of the Atlantis. It, too, has cutouts across the bottom shell. We’ve seen the X2 V2 go for $70 on Amazon in recent months — at that price, it’s still better for FPS players than the Viper V3 HyperSpeed, but we prefer the Atlantis when both are at their normal MSRP of $100.

The Pwnage Stormbreaker is a superlight (51g), exceptionally sturdy and premium-feeling wireless mouse that’s largely made from magnesium alloy instead of plastic. It performs about on par with our top picks, which is excellent, while its right-handed, medium-sized shape should suit palm and claw grippers well. (If you know BenQ’s Zowie EC line, the shape is basically that.) However, the extensive cutouts all over the sides and top shell are noticeable in the hand and make the device more susceptible to debris buildup than the DeathAdder V3 Pro. While the buttons and scroll wheel are impressively tight, the main clicks are a bit too stiff and high-pitched for our liking. We also noticed more connection stutters than usual on our test PC, and it’s expensive at $169.

Speaking of BenQ, its Zowie U2 is a perfectly decent alternative to the Viper V3 Pro that costs about $30 less. It tracks great, it’s lightweight (60g) and its mechanical clicks feel fine. It also comes with two receivers, one of which doubles as a handy charging dock. It has a symmetrical shape with sides that curve inwards and a decently-sized hump at the back; BenQ says it’s designed for claw grips, and it is indeed good for that, but it should also work for fingertip grippers with larger hands or palm grippers with smaller ones. Alas, the scroll wheel is gratingly loud and the plastic coating picks up smudges and hand oils like it’s its job. There’s also no configuration software, which can make adjusting settings a little cumbersome, though some may prefer not having to install any extra bloat on their PC. This mouse also maxes out at a fairly basic 1,000Hz polling rate — that’s not a huge deal in practice, but it is technically behind many other mice in this price range.

The Pwnage Stormbreaker and BenQ Zowie U2 gaming mice side-by-side on a brown wooden desktop.The Pwnage Stormbreaker and BenQ Zowie U2 gaming mice side-by-side on a brown wooden desktop.

The Pwnage Stormbreaker (left) and BenQ Zowie U2 (right). (Photo by Jeff Dunn / Engadget)

There isn’t much wrong with the Logitech G309 Lightspeed in a vacuum. It’s built like a tank, its sensor is accurate and its egg-like shape should feel OK, if not superlative, in most hand sizes and grip types. It uses the same hybrid switches as the G Pro X Superlight 2, so the clicks don’t sound great but are fast. It also has a supercapacitor inside, which gives it effectively infinite battery life if you own Logitech’s (costly) PowerPlay charging mat. That’s neat! Most people, though, will need to pop in a AA battery, which pushes the weight up around 85 grams. As most of that weight is felt toward the back, the mouse can feel relatively clunky to fling around in FPS games. We’re not fans of the ugly recess across the middle of the device, either, as it creates a space for dust to collect. At $80, the G309 is still fine for more casual types who’ll only buy from a name brand. But unless you use PowerPlay, it doesn’t do much to stand out from other options around the same price.

The HyperX Pulsefire Haste 2 is a decent wired model for those who want a flatter ambidextrous shape. It performs well for competitive play, and it’s plenty light (53g) thanks to a clever design with cutouts on the bottom that are covered by the mouse’s label. But the Endgame Gear OP1 8K is better-built and more comfortable, so we think it’s worth the extra cash. The Razer Viper 8KHz was another solid, albeit heavier, option with a similar shape, but it’s no longer available for purchase.

A few of the gaming mice we tested for our latest update. Left to right: the Glorious Model I 2 Wireless, the Razer Cobra Pro, the Razer Basilisk V3 X HyperSpeed and the HyperX Pulsefire Haste 2.A few of the gaming mice we tested for our latest update. Left to right: the Glorious Model I 2 Wireless, the Razer Cobra Pro, the Razer Basilisk V3 X HyperSpeed and the HyperX Pulsefire Haste 2.

A few more gaming mice we’ve tested. Left to right: the Glorious Model I 2 Wireless, the Razer Cobra Pro, the Razer Basilisk V3 X HyperSpeed and the HyperX Pulsefire Haste 2. (Photo by Jeff Dunn / Engadget)

The HyperX Pulsefire Haste 2 Core Wireless is a budget-friendly wireless variant of the Haste 2. It may be OK if you must go wireless and only have $50 to spend, as its shell feels sturdy and its low-profile shape is well-suited to claw or fingertip grips. It’s a bit weightier than the wired Haste 2 (about 70g) since it runs on a AAA battery, but that’s nowhere near heavy. That said, its main buttons feel somewhat mushy, and we observed a few sensor hiccups and inconsistencies, particularly when we had HyperX’s Ngenuity software open.

The Logitech G502 X has a generally similar shape as the Razer Basilisk V3, with a lower weight (84g) and more side buttons. However, its main buttons are noisier, it’s a slightly more awkward fit for most hands, its rubber cable isn’t as flexible and it lacks RGB.

The Logitech G203 Lightsync is our former budget pick. It’s often available in the $30 range these days, and at that price it’s still fine if you want a competent gaming mouse for as little money as possible. You can feel the cost cutting in its rubbery cable and mushy scroll wheel, however, and its shape is a bit too small and flat for larger hands. The Logitech G305 Lightspeed is a wireless model with more or less the same shape, but it requires a AA battery to work and thus weighs just over 100g. It, too, feels somewhat outdated in 2024.

The Razer Cobra is another value-oriented wired option with a compact shape. It’s much lighter (58g) than the Logitech G203, with a more flexible cable and optical switches instead of mechanical ones. It’s priced at $40, though, putting it in something of a no man’s land between the G203’s and Basilisk V3’s usual going rates. The Endgame Gear OP1 8K still feels higher-quality across the board, but if you have smaller hands, use a fingertip grip and want a symmetrical mouse on the cheap, go for it.

A blue Logitech G203 Lightsync gaming mouse rested on top of a black mouse pad on a desk.A blue Logitech G203 Lightsync gaming mouse rested on top of a black mouse pad on a desk.

The Logitech G203 Lightsync (Jeff Dunn / Engadget)

There’s plenty to like about the Glorious Model I 2 Wireless: an ergonomic shape that’s reminiscent of the Basilisk V3/Logitech G502 X but lighter at 75g, four customizable side buttons, the ability to connect over a USB receiver or Bluetooth, a smooth scroll wheel and tasteful RGB lighting, all for $100. However, its honeycomb-style design and mechanical switches both raise concerns about its long-term durability.

The Glorious Model D 2 Wireless also has holes all over its shell yet doesn’t perform or feel significantly better than other mice around the $100 mark. Reviews from other sites say it has latency issues, too. The ergonomic Model D 2 Pro and symmetrical Model O 2 Pro aren’t loaded with cutouts, but their main buttons are relatively loud and sticky-feeling.

The Razer Naga Left-Handed Edition isn’t nearly as good of a value as the Scimitar RGB Elite, but it’s one of the few MMO mice that’s actually built for lefties.

We would continue to recommend our former MMO pick, the old but wonderfully versatile Logitech G600, but sadly it’s been discontinued.

Buying a wireless gaming mouse used to mean sacrificing a certain level of responsiveness, but thankfully, that’s no longer the case. Over the last few years, wireless connectivity has improved to the point where the difference in latency between a good wireless model and a tried-and-true wired gaming mouse is barely perceptible.

Note, however, that we’re strictly talking about mice that use a 2.4GHz connection (over a USB dongle), not Bluetooth. Many of the best wireless gaming mouse models support both connection options, which is great for travel, but Bluetooth’s latency is generally too high to be reliable for gaming.

Going wireless still has other trade-offs, too. Battery life is improving all the time, but with their higher performance demands and RGB lighting, most wireless gaming mice usually don’t last as long as “normal” wireless models. You shouldn’t expect more than a few days of power from a rechargeable gaming mouse you use regularly. Some gaming mice offer wireless charging too, which makes things a bit easier. Good wireless gaming mice usually come at a much higher cost than their wired counterparts as well.

That’s not to say the premium is never worth it: Who wants yet another cable on their desk? You may need a wireless model if you hate the feel of “cable drag” or if your gaming PC is located in an awkward spot. Many wireless gaming mice come with a cable you can hook up in a pinch as well. But if price is your primary concern, a good wired mouse is usually a better value.

Everyone’s hands are different, so at the end of the day, calling one mouse “more comfortable” than another is mostly subjective. Ensuring your comfort is the most essential step when buying any mouse, though, so we’ve done our best to consider how each device we tested works with smaller, average-sized and larger hands alike.

We also considered how each device accommodates the three grip styles most people use while holding a mouse: palm, fingertip and claw. As a refresher, a palm grip is when your whole hand rests on the mouse, with your fingers resting flat on the main buttons. A fingertip grip is when you steer the mouse solely with the tips of your fingers, with your palm not in contact with the device at all. A claw grip is when your palm only touches the back edge of the mouse, with your fingers arched in a claw-like shape toward the buttons.

In general, most people use a palm grip, which tends to offer the greatest sense of control — though, depending on the size of your hand, you may need your mouse to be a specific length to use it comfortably. A fingertip grip can allow for more rapid movements, while a claw grip is something of a balance between the two. Switch and Click has a good breakdown if you’d like a bit more detail, but we’ve noted above if a mouse isn’t well-suited for a particular grip style. For what it’s worth, yours truly is a claw gripper most of the time.

A good gaming mouse feels sturdy and won’t flex or creak when used strenuously. We valued mice without any overly sharp angles or grooves that could be awkward for most people to hold. And while most gaming mice have plastic exteriors, not all plastic is created equal, so we looked for finishes that were smooth, not too slick and capable of withstanding the sweaty palms that often come with competitive gaming sessions.

The gaming mouse market is mostly split between two design styles: ergonomic and ambidextrous. Ergonomic mice are almost always made with right-handed users in mind and often feature dedicated thumb rests. Ambidextrous mice are more symmetrical and designed to be used with either hand (though they may not have extra buttons on both sides). Whether an ergonomic or ambidextrous gaming mouse works best for you is largely a matter of personal preference.

A gaming mouse’s feet, meanwhile, should provide a consistent glide and reduce the friction between your mouse and mouse pad beneath it as much as possible. For the best performance, look for feet made from PTFE (aka Teflon). All feet will eventually wear down, but many mice come with spares, and most manufacturers sell replacements if needed.

As for flashy RGB lighting, it’s a nice bonus, but little more than that. Still, if you’ve already kitted out your setup with RGB, having a mouse with adjustable lighting effects can add to the gaming experience (and more consumer tech could stand to do things for pleasure’s sake). More practically, some mice let you assign custom lighting settings to separate profiles, which can make it easier to see which one you’re currently using.

Gaming mice have gotten lighter and lighter over the years, with some recent releases weighing less than 40 grams. Your mouse doesn’t need to be that feathery — anything under 80g is still reasonably light, and it’s not like a 100g mouse feels like a total anchor. Regardless, a lightweight mouse makes it easier to pull off fast movements repeatedly, with less inertia. That said, some players still enjoy a little bit of bulk in their gaming mouse (relatively speaking), especially with games that aren’t as reliant on twitchy reactions.

To reach those lightest weights, some manufacturers have released gaming mice with “honeycomb”-style designs, which feature an array of cutouts in the outer shell. These mice can still perform great, but having a bunch of holes that expose the internal circuit board to possible sweat, dust and detritus isn’t the best for long-term durability.

A growing number of gaming mice use optical switches instead of mechanical ones. Since these involve fewer bits making physical contact, they should generally be more durable and less prone to unwanted “double-clicks” over time. Many gamers still find good mechanical switches more satisfying to press, so it’s not like you should avoid mechanical mice altogether. They just carry a little more long-term risk in a vacuum.

Since most people will use their gaming mouse as their mouse-mouse, you may want main buttons that have a softer feel when pressed, with enough travel to make inadvertent actuations less frequent. But even that is a matter of preference: You may want lighter buttons if you play games that call for constant clicking. We also looked to testing from sites like Rtings to ensure each mouse we recommend has a sufficiently low click latency, meaning your clicks will register with minimal lag.

Beyond the standard click panels, a good gaming mouse should also have programmable buttons for quick macros or shortcuts. For most games, shoot for at least two extra buttons on the thumb-side panel that are easy to reach and difficult to press by accident. Many mice have more buttons, which can be a plus, but not if they force you to contort your fingers to avoid hitting them. For MMO mice, having at least 12 side buttons is preferable in order to access as many hotbar commands as possible.

As for the scroll wheel, it should have distinct, ratcheted “steps” that aren’t too resistant but make it clear when you’ve actually scrolled. Its texture should be grippy, and it shouldn’t make a distracting amount of noise when used. The wheel should also be clickable, giving you another input to customize for certain games (e.g., to control the zoom on a sniper rifle).

Some are more proficient than others, but generally speaking, the optical sensors built into most modern gaming mice are more than fast and accurate enough for most people’s needs.

While shopping for gaming mice, you’ll see a number of terms related to sensor performance. To be clear, a gaming mouse’s responsiveness doesn’t come down to just one spec. But for clarity’s sake, here’s a rundown of the more noteworthy jargon:

  • DPI, or dots per inch, is a measure of a mouse’s sensitivity. The higher the DPI setting, the more your cursor will move with every inch you move the mouse itself. Many of the best gaming mice advertise extremely high DPIs that top out above 30,000, but that’s largely marketing fluff: Few people play above 3,000, with 800 a common sweet spot. This concept is also referred to as CPI (counts per inch), which is probably the more accurate term, though DPI is used more often.

  • IPS, or inches per second, refers to the maximum velocity a mouse sensor supports. The higher the IPS, the faster you can move the mouse before it becomes incapable of tracking motions correctly.

  • Acceleration goes with IPS. In this context, it refers to how many Gs a mouse can withstand before it starts to track inaccurately.

  • Polling rate is a measure of how often a mouse tells a computer where it is. In general, the more frequently your mouse reports information to your PC, the more predictable its response time should be. Anything at 500Hz or above is fine for gaming. The sweet spot for most is 1,000Hz. Many newer mice can go all the way up to 8,000Hz, but you start to see diminishing returns the higher you go unless own a powerful PC and play on a gaming monitor with a particularly high refresh rate.

  • Lift-off distance is the height at which a mouse’s sensor stops tracking the surface below it. Many competitive players like this to be as low as possible in order to avoid unintended cursor movements while repositioning their mouse.

It doesn’t take long to find horror stories about bugs and other niggling issues caused by gaming mouse software, so the ideal app is one that doesn’t force you to use it all the time. It should let you adjust as many of the aspects above as possible, ideally to several distinct profiles. Preferably, you can save your settings directly to the mouse itself, letting you pick your customizations back up on another device without having to redownload any software. All this is most important on Windows, but Mac compatibility is always good to have.

Most major gaming mice brands offer warranties between one and three years. The longer and more extensive a manufacturer’s program is, the better. This is the case with most consumer tech, but we note it here because the gaming mouse market is particularly flush with products from less-than-household names, many of which you may see hyped up on YouTube, Reddit or elsewhere around the web. A bunch of these more obscure mice are genuinely great, but if you ever buy from a more niche brand, it’s worth checking that some level of customer support is in place. We’ve made sure our picks for the best gaming mice aren’t riddled with an abnormal amount of poor user reviews.

September 2024: We’ve completely refreshed this guide for late 2024, adding new main picks based on shape alongside notes on several other gaming mice we’ve tested in recent months. We’re now in the process of testing Logitech’s new G Pro X Superlight 2 DEX, a flagship ergonomic mouse that the company announced right as we were putting the finishing touches on this update.